the Communications Museum and Flora Garden, before heading on to the Dr Sun Yat Sen memorial and St Lazarus Church. As many do, you may opt to head up to the Guia Fortress and Lighthouse to savour some splendid views over canon muzzles. It is a modestly taxing stroll up (a cable car runs too), along stone lanes that wrap around the knoll leading up to the whitewashed lookout terrace with its instantly recognizable stubby lighthouse and unadorned chapel. Just white doves and a few shutterbugs for company.

The Legacy of Arts and Culture trail leads from Fisherman's Wharf, a jolly themed area with its own coliseum, past the futuristic Macau Museum of Art and the Macau Cultural Centre. It's a breezy

spot the humpback bridge links arcing across the bay to the neon thrum of Cotai. In many ways this delineates the separation of 'old' Macau and the 'new'.

Enchanting Stories of Our Lady of Fatima Parish starts at the arched Border Gate. This is one of the more densely packed parishes and the oldest. The walk leads down crowded tree-lined streets, past the Ox Warehouse up a gentle hill to Mong-Ha Fort. Stop to explore shops and tea houses. The unassuming Mong-Ha offers fine views from its battlements with an array of canons and a nice eco walk with some well-planned play areas for tiny tots. Built in 1849 after the First Opium War, it was intended as a bulwark against invasion from the north. Now it sits