AMBODIA’s undisputed queen of vintage, a syncretic blend of Khmer, French and Art Deco, is the Raffles Hotel Le Royal Phnom Penh. No less a personage than His Majesty King Sisiwath Monivong officiated at the opening ceremony of the original Le Royal on 20 November, 1929. The vision of celebrated architect Ernest Hébrard, the hotel carved a name for itself and re-emerged as a Raffles with self-assured understatement in November 1997 to position itself as one the best Phnom Penh luxury hotels.

The lobby is small and intimate. Buddha statues serenely peer down from strategic perches to ensure check-in is smooth. A covered walkway runs from the lobby to the main residential wing, passing the gardens with two large sun-dappled swimming pools, one on either side.

The residential wing is heady with the fragrance of lemongrass. The 170 rooms – including newly refurbished Staterooms – place the emphasis on simplicity. Expect pastel carpets, starched white beds, and glass-paned doors opening onto a small balcony.There is a wooden almirah housing a defiantly old-fashioned TV, a mini-bar, and a small electronic safe. Internet is complimentary and WiFi too is free in public areas.

Everything is reassuringly familiar and there is never any hurry. Enjoy an evening cocktail at the Elephant Bar. Or high tea. Service is gracious, always with a smile. Try Cambodian at Restaurant Le Royal and later head up to the Raffles Spa for a conscience-salving rubdown. This is an address for leisure and business. It is also an admirable retreat for corporate meetings.