HE neon city that never ever sleeps, Shanghai shimmers enticingly over the Huangpu River that neatly separates it in two - the historic Bund, groaning with nostalgic memorabilia and magnificent grey-stone neo-classical buildings, and modern, high-rise Pudong. It is a unique blend of family fun, quaint tea houses, boutiques, designer brand shopping, selfie surprise at every corner, and primal urban energy. It is past here that Admiral Zheng He’s fleet sailed in search of spice in 1405, to amass a string of fabled firsts, including perhaps the discovery of America in 1421.

This seafaring prowess placed Shanghai firmly on the maritime silk road, and gave it its quintessential vigour. It has stayed a world leader, every innovation watched with envy and awe as it rose to pierce the sky with iconic buildings like the Jinmao Tower, the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, the 'bottle opener' Shanghai World Financial Center tower and the more recent 632m Shanghai Tower - a city within a city, the tallest building in China - with glitzy shops, luxe hotel rooms, offices, conference facilities, and a viewing gallery on the 119th floor. In June 2016, Shanghai Disney Resort - China's first - launched its child-friendly speed thrills like TRON, the fastest Disney ride yet.

Shanghai Disneyland features the largest castle in the world and a unique blend of local lore and culture incorporating 12 Chinese Zodiac elements. At The Bund you'll find newly weds posing, and a storied jazz band at the Peace Hotel, whose warbling notes have kept visitors pirouetting for decades. On Nanjing Lu, people waltz and swing. Savour Peking Opera at the imposing Shanghai Grand Theatre, while for nightlife with feasting and fun, head to the shikumen alleys of Xintiandi.

In 2010 the city hosted a splendid World Expo that transformed this metropolis with new multi-lane roadways, gardens, and pedestrian zones. The Bund has been splendidly recast and polished with grand refurbished stone buildings looking over the elevated Huangpu promenade – home to tai-chi, musicians, and wedding posers.

But it is the humble tea leaf that has found varied expression here, to attract connoisseurs from around the globe who come to sample its finest. Perhaps the best known of all is Tianshan Tea City, on Zhongshan West Road, where over 150 shops are set out in a multi-level building, selling an unimaginable variety of tea leaves and infusions. Walk through the teeming corridors, take your time, and sample the offerings. Have a sip or buy in bulk. This is a tea mecca like no other.

The Song Fang Maison de Thé is a teahouse in a charming three-storey French Concession house that dates back to 1930. It sells over 70 varieties of attractively packaged Chinese and French teas. Posh afternoon teas abound at international hotels and these will set your wallet back by Rmb200 to Rmb400. It’s a far cry from Tianshan but gleaming interiors and liveried waiters will evoke a bygone period for a moment of ecstatic transport – before the bill arrives.

At People’s Park parents gather weekends for the ‘marriage market'. Women are given the lead roles in local opera. Shanghai even has a professional baseball team. Try ‘hairy crab’ or street-style Yang’s Fried Dumplings. Later, retire to the Long Bar – once a popular bolthole for gentleman only at the Shanghai Club – now restored by the Waldorf Astoria.