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| Rajasthani women headed to the well |
AS DEADLINES, splitting hangovers, and tedious family visits converge, prompting a trawl through your bag for yet another Giant Alka Seltzer, the pressing need for a heavy dose of magic effervescence is undeniable. In the jaws of the morning after one Grey Goose too many, the options include tablets, bubbles, more tablets and, perhaps, some bracing winter – or summer – air of the Great Indian Desert. So Rajasthan it was. Good old Delhi may be the capital, but who could resist the allure of pink cities, old-world grandeur and the prospect of watching city slickers negotiate the wobbly hump of an irate camel?
The Thar Desert occupies northwestern Rajasthan that extends limitlessly into great heaps of wind-tossed sand dunes that constantly threaten to overpower even tree-lined New Delhi. Southeastern Rajasthan embraces the rugged brushwood of the Aravalli Hills. It is a wild and untamed state where Rajputs – moustachioed, tanned, rugged and handsome – take the business of hospitality quite seriously. Rajasthan simply out-Trumps Donald. Here everything is Bigger, Better, Older and Bound-To-Blow-You-Away. No toupees, just humungous, brightly hued, turbans. And sumptuous boutique and heritage hotels. On the India palace hotels scale, Rajasthan is easily the pick of the bunch. Start with a Rajasthan Map.
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Boasting a history that goes back well over a thousand years – indeed to the birth of the sun and moon, as various princely dynasties aver – looking out onto the endless desert, it is easy to imagine marauding hordes going about their business of pillage and plunder. The untold treasure of Rajasthan’s stately cities, towering forts, and grand palaces was the stuff of legend.
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| Cameleer/ photo: Verghese |
Now it attracts hordes of camera-wielding travellers who unload their own untold wealth at Rajasthan palace hotels as they marvel at Mughal-Hindu architecture and do the scorching rounds amidst charlatans, camels, cows, God men, guides, and astrologers. Expect a riot of colours in the bazaars with men and women dressed in traditional mirrored garb; winding streets that steer through fabulous jewellery shops; and street vendors hawking sinful treats.
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The street food is only for the intrepid and those with cast-iron stomachs. Drink just boiled water, piping hot tea, or bottled mineral water. And stay away from ice, and freshly washed vegetables. Do mind your step, as you don’t want to be run-over by a rickshaw driver or, worse, walk into an elephant’s rear-end. It happens. Especially if you come from a country where you drive on the ‘other’ side.
Say a quick prayer to the travel Gods and head off, to Jaipur (see our Rajasthan Map), also known as the Pink City. It was thus christened, when in 1876, the Maharaja Man Singh the second painted the city pink to give the Prince of Wales a royal welcome. (We did say they took hospitality seriously.)
Approximately 258km from New Delhi, Jaipur, the capital city of Rajasthan, is accessible by two major highways (National Highways 8 and 11). If a road-trip floats your boat, buses (both deluxe and regular) shuttle to and fro almost every hour between the two cities; hiring private taxis being the alternative. Another option for the scenic route is by train courtesy Indian Railways with the Shatabdi Express and the Pink City Express providing regular services. Or you could fly down on the good old national carrier Indian Airlines, or any of the several privately-run airlines.
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| Neemrana Fort-Palace/ photo: hotel |
But first, check out the environs closer to Delhi as you drive through increasingly arid scrub heading for the desert heartlands and its sentinel forts and gilded palaces. On with our Rajasthan palace hotels review.
Neemrana and Sariska heritage retreats
Neemrana Fort-Palace, situated just 100km from Delhi's international airport, is brilliantly accessible as it is sweepingly majestic. Built in 1464AD, the Neemrana Fort-Palace ranks high among the pantheon of the best Indian palace hotels. Neemrana became the third capital of the descendants of Prithviraj Chauhan III, who was killed in battle by Mohammad Ghori in 1192AD. All that gore aside, this is a stunning 25-acre property. The palace is cut in semi-circular terraces running down the hillside watching over the pastoral scenes and the town below. It rises up 10 levels ensuring fabulous views in all directions (even the bathrooms are designed to have a view, so you can feel like royalty on your “throne”). Pin-stripers will be glad to note that it is entirely possible to hold a smart company meeting for 30 to 150 people at this atmospheric resort.
In its other guise as an India spa resort that advocates healthy, holistic healing, Neemrana serves up Ayurvedic treatments galore. Lunch by the open-air pool is a must (Delhi-ites trek here just for a meal), as is a music performance of an evening at the stunning amphitheatre. Restored rooms are minimalist chic with nothing out of place. The actress Kate Winslet once remarked, that the Chandra Mahal was her “favourite room in the whole world.”
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| Aman-i-Khas luxury tent/ photo: hotel |
Sariska Palace lies on the Delhi-Jaipur highway, approximately 220km from New Delhi. Sariska palace was built as a hunting lodge at the close of the 19th century by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh of Alwar. Situated in a calm, quiet and wooded valley, it is on the threshold of what is now the Sariska National Park. Try camel and horse safaris, jeep rides, wildlife spotting, and nature walks.
Ranthambhore luxury tent lodges, Alwar
Ranthambhore, in the south eastern corner of Rajasthan, is approximately 130km from Jaipur. Ranthambhore National Park is well worth a visit and not just for tiger spotting. The park lies at the edge of a low plateau, with the Banas River to the north and the Chambal River to the south. The brooding fort watches over the reserve, home to tigers, leopards, chital and sambar deer, crocodiles, and a variety of birds. Much coveted by the mighty Mughals, the fort was the scene of bloody battles, untold carnage and tales of lofty heroism until Emperor Akbar’s armies finally marched in, in the 16th century.
 Pioneering the Indian luxury tent genre with its first foray into the subcontinent, Aman-i-Khás, run by Singapore-based Amanresorts, is an exclusive jungle encampment with 10 roomy tents evoking the Mughal style of yore. A soaring canopy covers the 108sq m quarters with rooms partitioned by gauzy cotton drapes. Nothing terribly rugged or taxing here. Expect a king-size bed, writing desks, cupboards and twin vanities. The Spa Tent offers a range of rubdowns, pummelling, aromatic treatments and relaxing massage. It’s all just the tonic after a hard day’s tramp in the woods. At the Lounge and Library you’ll find a good stock of CDs, CD players and books. The Aman-i-Khás experience centres on nature and trips into Ranthambore National Park to spot the big cats and other wildlife, usually in the early hours of the day before the sun climbs too high, or late in the afternoon. Camel safaris can also be arranged. (Aman-i-Khás features in our exclusive by-invitation Top Asian Hotels Collection, featuring the best Asian hotels, resorts and spas in a printable A4 page with stunning visuals.)
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| Tiger-spotting in Ranthambhore Park |
Towards the edge of the tiger reserve, nestled amidst the wilderness, you’ll spot the taut tarpaulin tents of The Oberoi Vanyavilas. A spectacular watercourse is a special feature as are its luxury tents with their private, manicured gardens.
It is a comfortable staging point for sweaty odysseys into the park. Cap off the evening with a visit to the Library Bar with its selection of spirits, cigars, wines and books. Or pop into the spa to rub off those jungle smells.
If tents, no matter how posh, don’t quite cut it, wander down to the Sawai Madhopur Lodge. The lodge is about a 20-minute drive from the reserve and is surrounded by 12 acres of garden. Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip are said to have stayed here once. If it’s good enough for them, then…
To experience more of Amanresorts in Rajasthan head for the stately Amanbagh in Alwar nestled in the rugged undulating contours of the Aravalli Hills. Amanbagh (combining the words aman or “peaceful” in Sanskrit and bagh or “garden” in Hindi) is a splendid oasis in the midst of the stark and beautiful, yet relentlessly arid, landscape. This walled compound was once used by the Maharajah of Alwar for his hunting trips as the royal party followed in hot pursuit of game through the area. Latter day travellers still chase game, capturing their “sport” this time on camera.
Amanbagh offers a lovely, tranquil setting, conjuring up a sense of a bygone era in its authentic recreation and restoration of the compound, its flowering shrubs and trees. There are Courtyard Haveli Suites, Garden Haveli Suites and Terrace Haveli Suites. There is a main 33m swimming pool set within the gardens but 16 Pool Pavilions offer their own pampering private pools and gardens.
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| Amanbagh oasis/ photo: hotel |
Pick up a good book and immerse yourself in history at the Library or spoil yourself silly at the Spa where therapists are on hand with an arsenal of healing treatments and other aromatic distractions. From here, head out to visit Ajabgarh Fort, the Satimata Dham temples at the rim of the Sariska National Park, Mansarover Lake or the game reserve. (Amanbagh features in our exclusive by-invitation Top Asian Hotels Collection, featuring the best Asian hotels, resorts and spas in a printable A4 page with stunning visuals.)
Rajasthan palace hotels and history around Jaipur
Trend-setter The Oberoi Rajvilas is about 8km from the city centre, and parked over 32 acres of landscaped gardens. It feels almost sacrilegious to call Rajvilas a hotel. This Rajasthan luxury resort was built with the singular intention of reviving the old-world grandeur and princely heritage of this Indian state. Rajvilas is the sort of resort you would gladly hand over all the money you saved up for mum and dad’s 50th anniversary. If this makes you feel a tad soulless and shallow, shove some more caviar down your gullet. Feel better? Right. Scattered liberally with pools, fountains, lotus ponds, crenellated walls and turbaned attendants kowtowing to your every whim, Rajvilas has hosted celebrities like Naomi Campbell, Bianca Jagger, the Duke and Duchess of Kent, and Bill Clinton.
The Premier rooms are set around serene courtyards in the traditional style. There are authentic teakwood four-poster beds and, for when your libido and romance runs out, private, walled ornamental gardens, for a quiet reflective stroll. Soak in your own sunken tub and watch DVDs while sipping a vodka-tonic. If you want more, they’ll give you more in the shape of 14 luxury tents. Don’t think sagging tents with sleeping bags from school trips of yore, steaming with the Great Unwashed.
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| Oberoi Rajvilas/ photo: hotel |
Think embroidered canopies, air-conditioning, Burma teakwood floors and Edwardian claw-foot bathtubs. Top of the line comes in the form of two Luxury Villas and the Kohinoor Villa, each with private pools and eye-popping memorabilia. The tab for the party starts upwards of US$750. Who fell into the lotus pond?
If you prefer history, mosey along to The Rambagh Palace. Built in 1835 by the queen for her favourite handmaiden, it was in 1925 that this relatively modest casa was converted into a palace for the Maharaja of Jaipur. It had by then, in the due course of the century, served time as a royal guesthouse and hunting lodge. Post 1920, the ‘Jewel of Jaipur’ once again became the home of the royal family. Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II converted it into a hotel in 1957, and the highly regarded Taj group of hotels took over the reins in 1975.
That’s a lot of heritage crammed into one hotel. History bristles in every nook and cranny, from the marbled corridors to the sprawling 47-acre gardens.
A total of 79 rooms are available at this top Rajasthan palace hotel. Apart from five luxury rooms and 41 palace rooms, there are different suites; 24 historical suites, for example, which welcome the dusty traveller with an arsenal of amenities including a personal butler on call all day. Walk-in wardrobes (available in all suites) should prevent any packing disputes with the Better Half. Most of the five Royal Suites used to be the personal rooms of the Maharaja of Jaipur himself. Yes, he needed a fair bit of space. There are also two Grand Royal Suites, where the Maharani Suite was created for Rajmata Gayatri Devi as a surprise gift. It would be a good idea to check out ‘Steam’. This pub is actually a 1925 steam engine with three bogies, and some interesting fusion food. But don’t miss out on the Polo Bar where the ambience takes you back to the days when the Jaipur Polo teams gave the English a run for their money.
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| Rambagh Palace by Taj/ photo: hotel |
Also part of the Taj Hotels’ repertoire of Rajasthan palace hotel extravagance is The Jai Mahal Palace. This palace dates back to 1745AD and is set upon 18 acres of carefully landscaped Mughal gardens over three levels (complete with waterways). It is located close to the main bazaar and is thus a perfect venue for a Jaipur shopping expedition.
The interiors focus firmly on heritage bling and drip with obligatory crystal and period pieces. The spa offers services that range from the Rajasthani ‘ubtan’ to the expensive sounding ‘Royal Aromatic Massage’.
Personally, the ‘Mewar Touch’, which uses the body’s pressure points, did it for me. Banish deadlines, the boss and wailing family. It won’t hurt to turn the mobile off.
All of the 100 rooms including six suites, have colonial-style furniture, miniature paintings, gold-hued silks, sheet curtains and stylish bathrooms, offering contemporary comfort with a regal touch. Amenities include tea/coffee maker, mini-bar, safe, TV, and hair dryer. Wi-Fi is also available.
Chomu Palace Hotel is a 300-year-old heritage property in Chomu town, Jaipur. The elegant courtyard turns into a melange of European and Indian decadence, thankfully separated into rooms with differing styles. The 58 large rooms and suites all sport 26-inch TVs, separate bathtub, tea and coffee facilities and safe – but it’s not the standard amenities that impress. The décor is the centrepiece of each room and restaurant. Romantic silk boudoir or aristocratic Parisian chic suites are filled with antique furniture, marble bathrooms and details such as the heritage bedside telephone. Restoration of this Rajasthan palace resort has been intricate and thoughtful, creating a romantic retreat for a heritage holiday.
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| Jai Mahal Palace/ photo: hotel |
The Le Meridien Jaipur is a generously endowed 11-acre property covered in greenery. This is a useful place for business and pleasure, and every room is Internet enabled. The Le Meridien is a child friendly hotel as well with its Penguins Club offering a daily roster of fun activities to keep tots entertained. For movie buffs there’s nothing less than a 42-seat cinema – on the premises – and night owls can party-hearty at the disco.
Located on the outskirts of the Pink City, on the Delhi highway, The Le Meridien is just a 25-minute drive from Jaipur, so guests can enjoy the best of all worlds. It’s literally a five-minute drive from the historic Amer Fort, so if you can exit pamper-mode for a moment, and can handle Indian traffic and don’t mind some local attention, we would suggest you walk it. You can Zen out peacefully in the Meditation and Yoga Suite later. Jaipur’s must-see Hawa Mahal and the Jantar Mantar observatory are just 15km away, so a sightseeing trip is easy.
Amer Fort was built by Raja Man Singh, with Sawai Jai Singh making some additions in later years. Within the palace compound are the Diwan-e-Aam (hall of public audience) and the Diwan-e-Khas (hall of private audience). You can also look around the Sukh Niwas and its intricate latticed screens from behind which the women could watch court happenings unseen and in utter privacy. Also within the Amer Fort compound is the Jai Mahal, the Temple of Victory, in which lies the glittering Sheesh Mahal (the hall of mirrors).
Close to the city centre is the ITC WelcomeGroup Rajputana Palace Sheraton, also a convenient 15km drive from Jaipur airport. The neat red brick hotel is not quite in the same league as its illustrious Rajasthan palace hotel peers but as a functional hotel and well-located Rajasthan pit stop it works very efficiently.
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| The majestic City Palace, Jaipur |
The Sheraton is a good place to gorge and pig out as it has some of the finest restaurants. The Chandravanshi Pavilion stays open 24 hours to keep away midnight munchies (try its fabulous Dum Pukht cuisine), while Jal Mahal offers international fare. The tandoori is a must at the Peshawari restaurant.
There are 216 rooms, including 17 suites at the ITC WelcomeGroup Hotel Rajputana Palace Sheraton. The inventory includes 70 Executive Club rooms, melding tradition with all the modcons of corporate hospitality.
The Trident Jaipur, the less expensive Oberoi hotel in town (formerly Trident Hilton), has stunning views of the Aravali ranges, and also overlooks the picturesque Mansagar Lake. It offers a bird’s eye view of the Jal Mahal, the palace built on the lake. Most of the 138 guest rooms have a lake or mountain view, so tear yourself away from the TV screen and feast on nature instead. Expect WiFi in the deluxe and executive rooms (as well as in all suites), a cool breeze, and generally bright and airy rooms. Pets aren’t allowed, but children certainly are, with babysitting services provided, and a Child Care Centre too.
In the pantheon of Rajasthan heritage hotels, the Raj Palace ranks pretty high. It’s also conveniently located smack in the middle of the four main historic complexes of Amber Fort, Jaigarh Fort, Nahar Garh Fort and the City Palace complex, as well as being close to the vortex of all that frantic Jaipur shopping. A small luxury boutique hotel, it houses only suites, and is home to an antique crockery museum which has collections that are over two centuries old. Just don’t break anything. The hotel keeps pictures of all the celebrities who’ve dropped in – Bollywood superstar Amitabh Bacchan, novelist Frederick Forsythe and Lord Mountbatten gaze benignly down on visitors.
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| Plush Raj Palace/ photo: hotel |
It was in 1995, that the Princess Jayendra Kumari Ji decided to restore this luxurious palace (built in 1727) to compete with the best Rajasthan palace hotels and boutique resorts. The residential quarters, courtyards, and arched corridors were all revamped. The finest of the royal antiques are kept in the wholly original Museum Suites, while antique furniture, delicate hand-painted frescoes and mirror work adorn the entire place. It’s a step back in time, into a fantasy world. Out of the 40 suites, it is the Prestige Suites that were once the residence of the Royal Family. The Swapan Mahal restaurant’s historic sweep tops the scales and it houses a rather rare crystal chandelier. The place has been decorated with real gold leaf.
You can’t leave Jaipur without visiting the lovely Samode Palace. According to the 1870 Samode Gazetteer, Samode was a sprawling town, and one of the wealthiest principalities in the Amber region. It was only in the 19th century under Rawal Berisal, that the castle – more a fortified stronghold – started morphing into the luxurious residence of today.
The breathtaking, hand-painted Darbar Hall and the Sheesh Mahal (hall of mirrors), two of the most famous additions to the palace, are credited to Berisal’s descendent Rawal Sheo Singh, who was prime minister of Jaipur for several years during the mid 19th century.
Cosily tucked into the stern and stark Aravalis, Samode Palace is approximately 42km southwest of Jaipur. The 43 rooms and suites are kitted out with traditional Rajasthani block-prints and offer balconies with sweeping vistas. Intricate marble work is complimented by traditional woodwork and mosaic. Antiques are liberally scattered to create an authentic old-world charm. The royal suites also come with private courtyards and Jacuzzi. Samode Palace is perhaps one of the most exquisite examples of an authentic Indian palace hotel and its smaller scale makes it easier to explore and enjoy.
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| Ornate Samode Palace/ photo: hotel |
Nestled in 20 acres of beautiful gardens close by is the Samode Bagh, the second in the Samode trio, a garden retreat. It offers 15 luxury tents, with air-conditioning. Here and in fact at the Palace as well, you might want to ask for horses to take a ride around the rugged surrounds.
The third property, The Samode Haveli, which is in the Jaipur city, was built over 150 years ago by Rawal Sheo Singh as well. Converted into a heritage hotel in 1988, it was to be the Samode royal family’s suburban manor house. A small and intimate hotel, it has been meticulously restored. Understated luxury is the avowed aim, with each of the 29 rooms fitted with original antiques and objects’ d’art, as well as hoary family portraits.
The Mandawa group has two properties including Castle Mandawa in Shekhawati, and the Mandawa Haveli in Jaipur, a grandiose structure in the heart of town. It consists of 137 rooms with sunlit verandahs and sprawling lawns for evening walks. The verandahs offer views of Nahargarh Fort.
For something atmospheric, homey, and friendly explore family home, DeraMandawa (just three kilometres from the City Palace) run by Thakur Durga Singhji, a veteran travel professional with a keen eye for detail and history. Ask him about his horses. DeraMandawa is not connected to the other Mandawa group. Mark this one down for a Rajasthan palace hotels experience that brings you up-close with the owning family. Someone with true-blue lineage will assist and guide you personally through your stay.
The family still lives in residence at this historic mansion, or haveli, and this perhaps accounts for the intimate feel of the place, more home than hotel. Opt for a spacious suite and sleep under plaster arches and latticework railings on a bed large enough for a regiment – all this with a vast array of breakfast options. Dine in, sun yourself in the courtyards, or enjoy the pink city’s many distractions.
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| DeraMandawa/ photo: hotel |
If you are in the area for the Camel Fair in the holy town of Pushkar, about 145km from Jaipur, consider staying at The Greenhouse Resort. This eco-boutique property is an oasis in the heart of Rajasthan. Ideally located, it is 10km from the hustle and bustle of the Pushkar Fair. Comprising 20 well-appointed tents, the setting is dreamy with several water features. It exudes an air of understated opulence. The night air is crisp and clean, and the only accompaniment is nature. The owners, Saurabh and Parul Sharda are hands-on managers and take special pride in the eco-friendly nature of the resort. In fact there is a greenhouse with Dutch roses and gerbera flowers for the floriculture enthusiast – all in the midst of some exceedingly inhospitable dry terrain.
Udaipur retreats and luxury resorts
The City of Lakes, Udaipur, is approximately 347km from Jaipur. Its ornamental and aesthetic centrepiece is Lake Pichola on the banks of which is perched The Oberoi Udaivilas. Udaivilas, and its ubiquitous sandstone elephants, takes luxury up a notch. One branch of the Rajputs are said to have descended from the Sun God, and the gold disc that represents him is a recurring motif at this Rajasthan luxury resort. Gawping out of the huge windows presents a spectacular view of the terraced gardens overlooking the lake, and the beautiful, historic City Palace.
The rooms are segregated into premier rooms and luxury suites, all decked out with regal silken canopies and marble bathrooms. The Luxury suites take you back to the days of the Raj with your own private butler, and private pool. If your wallet is up to it, the vast 2,650sq ft Kohinoor Suite offers a huge private pool, a courtyard with fountains, a private sauna, and a raft of spoiling amenities.
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| Oberoi Udaivilas/ photo: hotel |
Being located close to Lake Pichola is a huge bonus for any hotel, not least because of the imposing City Palace (built 1567AD) right on its banks. There are four major palaces and several smaller princely homes and havelis, as well as engaging sights such as Mor Chowk (peacock courtyard), Khush Mahal (palace of happiness) and the Tripolia (the triple arched main gateway).
The Trident Udaipur (formerly Trident Hilton) close to Udaivilas has 43 lush, landscaped acres, all a 10- minute drive from the city centre. Its Amrit Mahal bar offers traditional Mewar ambience, as well as the usual – and not so usual – tipples, while the Aravalli Terrace offers alfresco dining with huge views of the lake, the brooding Arvalli hills, and Sajjan Garh (Monsoon Palace). The Trident Udaipur is a useful launching point for an exploratory trip of Udaipur. For those in search of a Rajasthan heritage hotel with ambience and a simple, uncluttered style, the Shikarbadi Hotel is worth a look-see. Its cottages offer rustic chic – wake up to the calls of a peacock right outside your window. Shikarbadi used to be the hunting lodge of the Royal family of Mewar, and its long winding driveway takes you past its very own stud farm, and private hangar with quaint little airplanes. Peaceful is the key word.
The Lalit Laxmi Vilas Palace Udaipur (formerly The Grand Laxmi Vilas Palace) was originally built in 1911 by Maharana Bhupal Singh as a residence for Winn Gate, the British political agent at the time. In 1945 the palace was rebuilt as a royal guesthouse for visiting dignitaries and high-ranking British officers. The Lalit Laxmi Vilas Palace sits on 23 generous acres and is on the banks of the Fateh Sagar Lake with views of Sajjan Garh. Kitted out with the obligatory Maharaja and Maharani suites, the hotel also offers executive suites and palace deluxe suites.
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| Taj Lake Palace/ photo: hotel |
Try out royal buggy rides, and a sound and light show. In another first for Rajasthan palace hotels, this one boasts the largest outdoor swimming pool in Udaipur. This heritage hotel is managed by the Lalit Group.
Anyone familiar with Udaipur and the fabulous, if sometimes dry, Lake Pichola, will be religiously drawn towards a diminutive, mirage-like, palace, seemingly floating on the water. This is the exotic Taj Lake Palace, a sumptuous fairy-tale retreat, offering a Rajasthan palace hotel experience like no other. The place is all glistening marble and glittering mosaics. Built in 1746 by Maharaja Jagat Singh II, the palace is spread out over a four-acre island. The Lily Pond Courtyard hosts memorable dinners, while the Royal Barge allows you to party in style. The rooms and suites are dripping with regal memorabilia. The Chandra Prakash Suite (roughly translating into “the lustre of the moon”) offers chandeliers, a golden glow set off by the tiles, and a step up from your run-of-the-mill suite experience.
In its refurbished incarnation, the Lake Palace Hotel assumes a presence, which complements its environs. The 83 rooms and suites are decked out in opulent silk drapes, colourful murals and period furniture. Every evening, the courtyard by the bar offers yet another insight into royal ways: a traditional dance performance with contemporary touches makes for a lovely experience. There is also a historic walkabout tour (that comes with a glass of champagne) every evening. This is one of the best Rajasthan palace hotels around and with good reason.
On the banks of Lake Pichola, on an evening after the monsoons clouds have unburdened their welcome harvest, The Leela Palace Kempinski Udaipur shimmers above the waters, all domes and chhatris and regal Rajasthani symmetry. All the 72 rooms and eight suites have the privilege of looking out across the water when the lake is full. Alternatively, guests can enjoy the ESPA that runs a wellness operation under tents, book a boardroom, organise a corporate meeting, or simply savour some yoga, folk dances or cooking classes.
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| Leela Udaipur/ photo: hotel |
The land route to the hotel goes through the oldest part of town. Enjoy the meandering lanes, the noisy temples and mosques. And if you run into a marriage procession, be prepared for all the confounding local hospitality thrust upon you.
There's no missing the Devi Garh Fort Palace. In Delwara Village, overlooking one of the three passes that lead into Udaipur, this Rajasthan palace resort has been carefully renovated, immaculately adorned in local marble and semi-precious stones. The 30 suites are regal yet utterly contemporary.
Chic and minimalist. Its Kamal Court (or Lotus Court) is not to be missed especially for its black-marble water maze. Devi Garh can arrange bicycle tours and for those with an eye on the sun and moon, literally, astrologers can be speedily summoned to make intricate readings.
A guide to top Rajasthan palace hotels in the Jodhpur area
Just 260km from Udaipur, lies Jodhpur, a city painted largely in vibrant shades of blue. Situated in western Rajasthan, it is the second largest city in the state, and known for the gorgeous garment, the “leheriya sari”. Also make sure you have a bite of the kachouris, and if that gets too spicy then pop some sweet ladoos, all of which Jodhpur is famous for.
Topping the agenda is a visit to the Umaid Bhawan Palace (managed by Taj Hotels), which happens to be one of the most famous (and largest) personal residences in Rajasthan. The spacious 26-acre 347-room sandstone palace and grounds, named after Maharaja Umaid Singh, began running in 1943, with the hotel section boasting 64 luxurious rooms and suites. Guests can savour a whole new level of pampering accompanied by culinary delights in keeping with the royal nature of this palace.
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| Devi Garh Fort Palace/ photo: hotel |
The palace was designed by the celebrated Edwardian architect Henry Lanchester, and its art deco nuances are complemented by the exotic murals of the self-exiled Polish artist Stefan Norblin. It’s an interesting blend of cultures, with the soaring 105-ft-high cupola heavily influenced by the Renaissance style, while the towers are typical of the Rajput tradition. The art deco Maharani Suite is slathered in pink, black, chrome and mirrors with an inspiring Norblin mural of the Goddess Kali dominating. The bath has been carved out of a single slab of pink marble. A Rajasthan palace hotels icon, Umaid Bhawan is a must-stay must-see spot for all visitors to Jodhpur.
You can also check into any of the 93 rooms offered by the plush Taj Hari Mahal. With Marwar-inspired architecture, Mughal domes and detailed enamel murals, this hotel is spread over six acres, and situated close to the city markets. A perfect take-off point for village safaris to the desert heartland, this hotel offers guests an insight into local flavour.
A third Taj group property, The Gateway Hotel, Jodhpur, gives visitors yet another option in this beautiful desert town. A perfect blend of old Rajasthan and modern amenities, The Gateway Jodhpur offers business travellers a firm springboard.
No visit to Jodhpur is complete without a visit to the imposing Mehrangarh Fort. The fort is one of the most impressive in Rajasthan, with 5km ramparts perched on a 125m rocky cliff. The fort towers over the city, smack in the centre of things. Inside the fort, there are magnificent palaces decorated with intricately engraved panels and latticed windows.
If you are lucky, you might experience an evening tour of the palace, accompanied by a royal welcome. This is followed by a regal dinner with local musicians and dancers.
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| Stately Umaid Bhawan Palace/ photo: hotel |
And if you fancy a walk down history lane, travel 91km from Jodhpur to the fort palace of Khimsar. With its battle-scarred walls and turrets, the magnificent Khimsar Fort Palace sits at the edge of the Thar Desert. Founded in the 16th century, the royal family of Khimsar has its roots in Jodhpur. A section of the fort is set apart as a private residence for the current “royals”. The ramparts of the fort offer views up close of majestic sand dunes. Those interested in antique cars must visit the royal garage.
Shekhavati is an area that needs little introduction to salivating Indophiles. The colourful and imaginative frescoes and intricate hand painted walls that adorn the district and sleepy villages are enough to keep any shutterbug happy. This is where the country's fabulously wealthy Marwari community once thrived. An excellent base for exploring this region is The Piramal Haveli in Bagar run by the Delhi-based Neemrana Hotels group that has transformed many a derelict mansion into a heritage hotel of distinction. The haveli (or nobleman's house) offers echoing pillared corridors, peacocks on the lawns and, with sufficient notice, torch-lit dinners on the dunes. Piramal Haveli is an unfussy, laid-back Rajasthan heritage hotel choice for those seeking authenticity and history without aggressive "modern" intrusion. Here you will have an opportunity to savour a bygone era, slowly. Tea with the peacocks is a must on your to-do list.
Heading into the desert beyond Jodhpur, in Jaisalmer, marvel at some intricately carved havelis and noblemen’s homes, the fort, and a rustic way of life that continues unchanged. Hire a bicycle to get around and explore the shops. With the tourist influx, prices are going up but there is good shopping to be done in Jaisalmer.
The city was founded in 1156AD by the Bhatti ruler Rawal Jaisal. A short drive west from here brings you to the Sam Dunes where cameleers await to whisk you off into the desert for a safari, an overnight expedition, or a quick trip for the kids to get some sand in their shoes.
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| Heritage on Wheels/ photo: Heritage |
While in Jaisalmer, stay at the very majestic Fort Rajwada. Though it was built to accommodate tourists, this hotel exudes a regal aura. Expect exquisite carvings, traditional balconies and a sense of Jaisalmer haveli architecture. The fine work on yellow sandstone revives the Marwad school of art. The place is a perfect blend of the old and the new with the entire property equipped to take care of the modern traveller. Head up to the roof to catch the sunset.
Rajasthan luxury trains
If you like the click-clack of rail travel and the hustle of Indian stations where you’ll experience more in ten minutes than perhaps in the entire country in a week, try the Palace on Wheels which takes you back in time. The journey begins at the Safdarjung station in New Delhi and takes in a weeklong traipse through the sights, palaces and forts of Rajasthan. The train has air-conditioned luxury saloons, two lavish restaurants, a bar, wall-to-wall carpeting, and the obligatory gilt furniture. Heritage on Wheels is a luxury tourist train that takes you by narrow meter gauge to less explored regions of Bikaner and Shekhawati – both embodying the artistic heritage of Rajasthan. Check in at the Jaipur station and off you go.
Planes, trains, automobiles, and camels. Rajasthan palace hotels, here you come.
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