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ONCE upon a time travellers flocked to Macau to nibble egg tarts on the crumbling steps of St Paul’s ruins and marvel at the warm embrace of Chinese and Portuguese culture in the city’s historic quarter. Crowds dodged firecrackers at the A-Ma temple before heading off to feast on Macanese salted cod balls in cosy European-style taverns. Then came the casinos. Suddenly the limelight moved on from this UNESCO World Heritage Site to spinning roulette wheels, one-arm bandits, giant buildings shaped like golden flowers, Venetian gondolas and hallucinogenic neon. And just when you thought this flamboyant Special Administrative Region (SAR) was spent – a new wave of extravagance.
First came Cirque du Soleil with its dreamy show Zaia, next up was the fiery Dragon’s Treasure in the world's largest special effects projection dome, followed by a Michael Jackson museum, and then the aquatic spectacle House of Dancing Water featuring 3.7m gallons of the wet stuff. Pop legends such as Lady Gaga have shunned Hong Kong in favour of Macau’s swankiest venues and now hoards of Playboy bunnies and digital mermaids are joining the fun. Las Vegas saw Macau looming large in its rearview mirror and by the end of 2006 had been eclipsed on casino revenues. This once sleepy enclave has indeed woken up – fast – but before we leap into our Macau guide and detailed review of those glittering Macau casino hotels, a quick geography lesson to help you get your bearings.
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Macau (also Macao), which returned to China in 1999 after more than four centuries of Portuguese rule, is located on the western bank of the Pearl River Delta in southern China. The 29.5sq km enclave includes the Macau Peninsula, the islands of Taipa and Coloane and the 5.8sq km area of reclaimed land known as Cotai, now linking Taipa and Coloane. Two bridges connect the Macau Peninsula with Taipa. Of the around 544,600 inhabitants, about 95 percent are ethnically Chinese. The rest are of Portuguese or other European descent, or from elsewhere in Asia.
Getting to Macau – a ferry tale come true
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| Colourful Rua Da Barra |
Speeding into Macau for a weekend, chances are you’ll arrive by high-speed Turbojet ferry (tel: [852] 2859-3333 or www.turbojet.com.hk) from Hong Kong (about an hour’s journey). It is about 140 patacas (or Hong Kong dollars) one way. The price varies on the time of sailing and also the day (weekend ferries and night sailings may be more expensive). The Macau pataca (MOP) is common rated with the Hong Kong dollar (US$1=HK$7.8) and Hong Kong dollars circulate freely everywhere from taxis to shops and casinos. Any Macau guide will say you can buy ferry tickets on the day of your departure, but it’s best to pre-book as there can be long stand-by lines to get onto ferries, particularly on weekends and public holidays.
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Turbojet also has a new service between the SkyPier at Hong Kong International Airport and Macau, plus services between Macau and both Shenzhen and Guangzhou in southern China. Another option is the Cotai Strip CotaiJet (tel: [852] 2359-9990 or www.cotaijet.com.mo) operating from the Hong Kong Macau Ferry Terminal to Cotai – the fast developing casino area where The Venetian Macao and Four Seasons are located. Again, expect to pay more for a ticket on weekends. First Ferry (Macau) (www.nwff.com.hk) operates a service between Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong and Macau. An average one-way mid-week fare is around HK$135 rising to HK$175 for weekend evening services.
You can also enter Macau from China, through the Cotai frontier post or the “Barrier Gate” on the northern border of Macau. Money to burn? Fly in by helicopter (a 15-minute flight from Hong Kong; one-way ticket from MOP2,600, tel: [852] 2108-9898 or www.heliexpress.com) like the big boys do. The helipad is at the ferry terminal. You can also catch flights to a range of destinations from Macau International Airport.
Apart from Air Macau (en.airmacau.com.mo), a number of low-cost airlines, including AirAsia (www.airasia.com), and Cebu Pacific (www.cebupacificair.com), fly in and out of Macau linking up places like Bangkok, Manila, Japan, South Korea, Beijing and Shanghai. Feisty budget airline Viva Macau even flew to the Maldives and then, irredeemably overstretched, ceased all flight operations.
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| Macau family fun at the Venetian |
Outside the terminals, Macau hotel shuttle buses line up (most hotels have regular free services to the ferry), or grab a taxi. First flagfall is MOP13, and fares are metre-regulated and reasonable. It should cost you about MOP20 to any point in the city. A journey to the farthest point on Coloane Island is between MOP65 and MOP90, depending on the traffic. It can be a frustrating ordeal to come by a taxi between 5pm and 7pm, when traffic is at its most congested and taxi drivers change shift. If all else fails, you can always hail a pedi-cab (tricycle rickshaw). Not a cheap option, but a bit of a thrill (about MOP150 per hour). Do settle on a price before you set off.
Buses are cheap (only MOP3.20 within Macau Peninsula and MOP4.20 to Taipa). With a little time and patience, they’re a perfectly easy way to get about. All bus stops display bus numbers and destinations.
Chinese (Cantonese) and Portuguese are Macau’s official languages, so all street and other signs are in these two languages. Many taxi drivers speak little or no English. Ask your hotel concierge to write out the Chinese characters for your various destinations in advance. Some Macau maps have the main tourist attractions and hotel addresses written in Chinese, so it’s handy to carry one of these in your backpack or briefcase. Macau is spelled Macao in Portuguese.
That vanishing heritage
Before plunging into our Macau hotels review, kick off your Macau sightseeing in the heart of the city, at Senado Square with its distinctive Portuguese paving off the busy thoroughfare Avenida Almeida Ribeiro, also known as “San Ma Lo”. Here, old men cluster in groups at sundown and families gather. It feels Latin, with the churches to match. People whiz by on scooters, European-style, and it’s not unusual to see two men greeting one another with a kiss on the cheek. The architecture is old world and you could wander the area for hours, exploring the alleyways and admiring quaint louvred windows and plant boxes. The 16th-century neo-classical Holy House of Mercy (the oldest institution in Macau, founded in 1569 as a home for widows and orphans) has a museum displaying old paintings and artefacts. Further down the square is the San Domingos (St Dominic’s) church, built by the Dominicans in the 1590s. An adjacent museum – Treasure of Sacred Art – occupies what is left of the ancient cloisters and contains religious artefacts that date from the 17th century.
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| St Paul's church facade |
The 1784 neo-classical Leal Senado Building, Macau’s first municipal building, overlooks the square, which is just a short walk from the famous Ruins of St Paul. Its façade (the only part of the church left after it burnt down when struck by lightning during a typhoon in 1835) is an imposing sight. Some steel steps and a vertigo-inducing podium have been constructed at the back, so you can climb up to admire the views of Macau all around. In Macau, there’s a temple for every church, so also check out the little Taoist temple, Na Tcha, just left of the ruins.
Macau’s “historic centre” is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, of which locals are justifiably proud. Walking is the best way to see the sights in this area. From Senado Square, head to cobble-stoned St Augustine’s Square (just cross the main road up Rua Dr Soares and follow the signs) for a traditionally Portuguese streetscape. Even on weekends, it’s a quiet spot with pretty paving and beautifully restored and protected buildings.
Dating back to 1814, St Augustine’s Church (or Santo Agostinho) on the square has the distinction of housing the statue of Our Lord of Passion, which Roman Catholic worshippers annually carry through Macau’s streets at Lent. Yes, this IS China. Just to make sure, check out the Sir Robert Ho Tung Chinese Library with its peaceful garden dotted with reading tables close by. (Sir Robert was a Hong Kong businessman who bought the house – built in the 1890s – as a retreat in 1918 and left it to the Macau government in his will.) A stone’s throw away is the oldest European-style theatre in China, the green-painted Dom Pedro V Theatre built in 1858. It still hosts regular symphony concerts and other recitals.
If you’re up for more walking (or grab a taxi), head to the Rua da Praia Grande (the main road along the man-made lakes in the Macau Tower area), and turn right into Calcada do Bom Parto to reach the well-guarded, yellow-and-white colonial home of the Portuguese consul-general (formerly the Bela Vista hotel), set in a quiet residential neighbourhood.
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| City of Dreams/ photo: hotel |
Not far from here, at Barra Point, is the famous Ming Dynasty A-Ma Temple, built on terraces against the hill and dating back to the 1400s. No Macau guide would be complete without mention of this august spot. The temple is dedicated to the goddess of seafarers, A-Ma, and Macau’s name is derived from “A-Ma-Gau” (or Place of A-Ma). Bring your earplugs – devotees come here to explode firecrackers to scare away the evil spirits (stock up at the temple kiosk). Malign spirits might be scarce, but there’s a liberal sprinkling of beggars at this spot, which overlooks the Maritime Museum (www.museumaritimo.gov.mo), worth a visit for highlighting Macau’s interesting seafaring history, but closed on Tuesdays.
Check out the Moorish Barracks on Barra Street nearby. This is another new-classical building “with a Moghul influence” hailing back to 1874, originally built to accommodate an Indian regiment from Goa that was appointed to reinforce Macau’s police force at the time.
Walk a bit further and you’ll find the Penha Chapel where we were lucky enough to meet a nun who was keen to talk about everything from the former Portuguese enclave’s once-easy pace of life to the toll land reclamation has had on its beaches. We chatted as we stood on top of Penha Hill, where the chapel, first built in 1622 and completely reconstructed in 1837, offered a contemplative lookout spot close to many of the city’s cultural sights and beautiful old colonial buildings. Now neon-wrapped Macau casino hotels vie for space with churches and temples and for the best views you need to catch high-speed elevators whooshing skywards. The famous Hotel Lisboa with its distinctively gaudy neon lighting, once the main event, is now dwarfed by the literally rising competition.
Also charming is a 19th-century Chinese-style dwelling called Mandarin’s House (Travessa de Antonio da Silva), which re-opened in March 2010 after an eight-year and US$5.3m restoration project. Step through the moon gate and admire the decorative tiles and carved doors of this tranquil former home of Chinese literary figure Zheng Guanying.
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| Senado Square: old world charm |
Leaving Macau Peninsula behind, Taipa’s old village still has a laid-back feel. Take a stroll down its historical centre, Rua do Cunha, with ubiquitous cookie and cake shops, quaint traditional shophouses and a relaxed pace. The old Praia waterfront is idyllic, with a row of five beautifully restored old neo-classical houses, grassy areas and benches to mellow out on. Until recently, the views from here were of tranquil, rural Coloane, but now The Venetian looms in the distance.
Coloane is the most untouched part of Macau, with two beaches, small eateries and low-rise housing. Locals like to hang out at Hac-Sa beach, with small beachfront stalls and barbecue areas. Take a stroll though Coloane village, where there are also a few small galleries for browsing.
Macau casino hotels, inns and family stays
There’s no shortage of accommodation in Macau, but book ahead, particularly on weekends and China holidays when the city fills up to bursting point. Macau is the only Chinese territory where gambling is legal and, it has to be pointed out, until not too long ago, it had a bit of a reputation for gambling dens of a more sordid nature – not to mention the odd shootout or two. Fear not. These days, the headlines are dominated by stories of phenomenal growth – tempered by the occasional China visa restrictions – dominated by a burgeoning casino culture, and glamour. On with our Macao casino hotels review.
Near the city centre is the 600-room Wynn Macau, the first foreign competitor to magnate Stanley Ho’s original, glittering granddaddy of Macau gaming, the Hotel Lisboa. It is easily among the top Macau luxury hotels. The sleek glistening mirrored-glass design has made its mark on the Macau skyline. And the fountain that occasionally explodes into some serious water-dance action outside the main entrance is quite a draw. The hotel has been constantly evolving, a consequence of its owner Steve Wynn’s mercurial style and taste.
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| Wynn Macau: imposing sweep |
The result is a sense of freshness, brisk service and engagement. No question, this is a large casino hotel in the Las Vegas mould. But, within that ambit, it manages to exude a stately, even formal, presence. Deluxe rooms at the Wynn are huge (56sq m), with heavy, extra-large wooden doors, massive two-basin bathrooms and grand entrance halls. Tasteful creams and light browns abound and the facilities are extensive (from flat-screen LCD television sets in bathrooms, to safes that will fit a laptop, to Broadband Internet access, and ironing boards). One-bedroom Suites have a bit more glitz, with mirrors on the living room ceiling, blood-red couches, black marble entrances, an extra room with a massage bed, and Jacuzzis and LCD TVs in bathrooms.
For VIPs, there are ten 278sq m Sky Suites with spectacular city and harbour views out floor-to-ceiling windows, two bedrooms, TVs that ascend on remote command from the depths of sleek wood cabinets, a serving bar, an in-suite spa, a dining room, a kitchen, his and her bathrooms, and more. What else do you expect for a rack rate of MOP35,000 per night? There are eight bars and restaurants, and a 200,000sq ft casino, in the centre of which is an 11-metre ‘Tree of Prosperity,’ which rises up in all its golden glory from the floor.
The casino is laid out in intimate pockets with rich drapery creating a sense of privacy and seclusion. For those who don’t like to mix their vices, a non-smoking section is available, which is somewhat rare in the casino landscape. Take the rare opportunity to try Chinese speciality menus at Golden Flower restaurant, which has glowing teapots on the ceiling and a poet who will present you with some handwritten verse at the end of your meal. For a classy cocktail try a ginger and lemongrass margarita at Cinnebar—grab a table outside in the lush sculpted garden by the pool.
Wynn comes complete with a top-notch spa and a glitzy high-end mall for Macau shopping of the rarefied kind. The Wynn Esplanade features several top brands like Dior, Chanel, Fendi, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, Prada, Rolex, Versace, Miu Miu, and Vertu. This is where punters spend their winnings on trophy bags and jewellery (as scuttlebutt goes, the roomier your handbag, the better your chances to win big). This hotel is a top address on our Macau casino hotels review.
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| Encore/ photo: hotel |
Next to Wynn is sister property Encore, an all-suite, boutique-style hotel. Check-in is a rather mesmerising experience thanks to 1,000 moon jellyfish housed in a giant aquarium above the reception desk. Watch carefully and you may see them being fed by one of four dedicated jellyfish keepers. There is a crystal and jewel theme running throughout the hotel including rock crystal wall art and a chandelier so twinkly you almost need shades. Once again a reminder that you’ll need to save up for that Macau shopping spree. The offerings here are mainly luxury jewellery brands such as Cartier and Piaget and even the classy champagne den Bar Cristal has a jewel-box decor. You’ll also spot hand-embroidered butterflies and ornate fish lurking among the zesty mango and lime decor.
Encore has 369 Deluxe Suites, 41 Grand Salon suites and four invitation-only villas, which are 7,000sq ft and include a hair salon, fitness centre and media room. Interiors feature bold scarlet and blond wood, effusing a funky art vibe and all rooms have floor-to-ceiling views of Nam Van Lake and the city skyline. For the Deluxe Suite, expect an average living space of 102sq m, twice daily housekeeping service, twin vanities, a LCD TV between the lounge and bedroom which swivels 360 degrees plus a smaller TV in the bathroom, iPod docking station, laptop-sized safe, WiFi (MOP160 for 24 hours), Vidal Sassoon hairdryer, iron and board, and funky minibar snacks such as spicy prawn crackers and egg rolls. The 99 Noodles restaurant is decorated with hundreds of colourful chopsticks and serves nine different types of hand-pulled noodles and nine broths. Top it all with a signature four-hand massage at The Spa at Encore, designed to resemble the interior of a luxury yacht. Expect 34,000sq ft of gaming space at Encore.
Billionaire Stanley Ho, who controlled Macau’s gaming market for four decades before it was liberalised, has answered back with the new high-end Macau luxury hotel, the Grand Lisboa, which comprises of casinos, nightclubs and a hotel. At night, the casino resembles a giant psychedelic, flashing globe with petals. It offers 240 gaming tables and 746 slot machines. The unique lotus-flower-shaped hotel, with 400 rooms, opened December 2008 as a flagship for the group. It aims to be among the best Macao casino hotels.
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| Grand Lisboa and Lisboa Hotel: old stalwart |
Expect unrestrained opulence – rooms have handmade carpets, 500-thread-count sheets, down quilts, hi-tech facilities including 40-inch flatscreen TVs and smaller TVs in the bathroom, Turkish steam baths, rain showers, and Jacuzzis. Average room size is a sweeping 50sq m with suites touching 75sq m. Rooms start on the eleventh floor offering open views of the city and the seafront. Dine at Michelin-rated restaurants, swim in an outdoor all-weather pool and later unwind at the Lisboa Spa by Clarins. The Grand Lisboa is also positioned as a Macau conference hotel with a Grand Ballroom capable of accommodating up to 1,300 persons.
Right next door is the original Hotel Lisboa, which – with its over-the top entrance halls and chandeliers, collection of priceless Chinese art pieces for viewing, 1,000 rooms, and many restaurants – is well worth visiting for a whiff of nostalgia, frescoes, or more. The hotel has been through extensive refurbishments that have produced brighter restaurants and bars and a brisk feel to things, not least due to the money coursing through the thrumming Casino Lisboa. The old wing offers comfortable rooms with a faux-Versailles touch and soaring half canopies above the beds. Rooms offer all modcons with the de rigueur hair-drier, in-room safe, and satellite TV. Broadband as well as local calls are free. It’s high camp, fun, with a touch of mischief, and the location – smack at the epicenter of things – is unbeatable. Several rooms look out to unobstructed city and lagoon views. The Lisboa Wing offers rooms that conform more to a conventional modern standard. Of an evening, the basement is commandeered by a colourful cast of fast-strolling ladies with business intent.
The Grand Lapa Hotel (formerly Mandarin Oriental) stands in the shadow of its shimmering neighbour, Sands. The changeover from stalwart Mandarin Oriental to Grand Lapa didn’t see too much of a shift in room software, just a stronger Macanese influence on restaurant menus. Rooms come with Internet access, TV, small working desk, large safe and iron and board. It also has meeting facilities, a business centre, an outdoor swimming pool framed by lots of green, a well-equipped children’s centre with an outdoor playground, and a spa where each treatment room has an outdoor garden with a Jacuzzi.
Daring guests can challenge themselves to a spot of rock climbing on the 10m and 360-degree outdoor tower at the back of the property, or smash some volleys on one of three tennis courts. The bar – Vasco – on the second floor of the lobby provides great views of the Macau Grand Prix route, held every year in November. The property is conveniently located close to the ferry terminal and offers modern comforts with a touch more understatement. It works both as a Macau business hotel within easy reach of the boat, as well as a child-friendly family hotel.
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| Mandarin Oriental deluxe/ photo: hotel |
Not far from the Wynn, the new Mandarin Oriental, Macau has thrown open its doors (June 2010) by the downtown waterfront in the area referred to as NAPE. The hotel, integrated with the mixed-use development One Central, has 213 rooms including 26 suites and one presidential suite. Rooms are modern with subtle European flair, and dominated by warm tones of dark wood, caramel and gold. You’ll also get to enjoy views of Taipa Island and Nam Van Lake. Although not as spacious as some other casino hotels, the standard Deluxe Corner room is more than adequate at 40sq m and has plenty of perks such as Aromatherapy Associates toiletries, a bath with a view, a work desk, and a Nespresso machine. There’s also an impressive in-room entertainment system including a 42-inch flatscreen TV and DVD that can be linked with your laptop or iPod. You can also access the Internet via the TV. If the thought of all those whirling roulette wheels is keeping you up at night, switch to the mood channel with soothing music and views of peaceful Alpine peaks.
There is also a spa, Vida Rica Restaurant & Bar (serving mainly Western food with some Chinese and Japanese dishes) and the Mandarin Oriental cake shop on the premises. Don’t expect roulette tables and jackpot machines here though – the hotel is strictly a non-gaming property. The neighbouring One Central complex has an entrance in the hotel lobby so stroll through and explore 200,000sq ft of retail space for more Macau shopping, examining brands such as Burberry, Gucci and Dior.
Also in this area is the 301-room L’Arc Macau. An East-Meets-West theme is implied through a Renaissance-inspired mural on the ceiling but on the whole, this hotel is disappointingly conventional. The functional lobby includes an ATM, gift shop and cafe with rather distracting TVs. Stern security guards keep a watchful eye on chattering crowds as they flock towards the casino on the ground and first floor. In contrast to the somewhat ostentatious lobby, the standard Deluxe is surprisingly simple with contemporary touches in white, beige and peach, and a chaise lounge stretched along a marble-ledged window. Amenities include a 42-inch flatscreen TV and DVD, laptop-size safe, work desk, hairdryer, tea and coffee facilities, minibar with cup noodles, and clock radio with iPod dock. There is free Broadband but ironing facilities are only available on request. The in-house casino comprises over 160 gaming tables and 310 slot machines. There are four restaurants including Chinese, Shanghainese and Japanese.
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| MGM GRAND / photo: hotel |
Hotel Lan Kwai Fong Macau waltzes in downtown cheekily exploiting Hong Kong’s popular entertainment district of the same name. This is no relative of Hotel LKF or Hotel Lan Kwai Fong Hong Kong. The intimate 200-room hotel makes a sharp u-turn from all things Vegas, the gaudy gold and lucky red that make up Macau’s usual fare. Faux Philippe Starck lampshades set the scene in 300sq ft rooms which sport 400 thread count linen, iHome, BVLGARI toiletries and lots of light. The resort style Grand Deluxe almost doubles the floor space and extras include a coffee machine, multi device charger, hairdryer, rain shower and a huge wall safe with jewellery box.
There’s the necessary casino offering, but also a large spa with hair salon, fitness centre, slimming machines, alongside 13 rooms and 11 more at the “clinic”. Channelling the spirit of Hong Kong’s hippest evening venue but dancing to a different tune might be just the ticket for Hotel Lan Kwai Fong Macau. Being painted bright purple doesn’t hurt either.
In the vicinity is Sands Macao Hotel (along with the Sands casino), a gold, mirrored-glass creation that opened in 2007 (the casino opened a few years earlier). With the same owners as The Venetian (Las Vegas Sands Corp), it is more restrained than its Cotai Strip sibling with a relatively smaller number of rooms at 289. There’s no shortage of in-room amenities though with plasma-screen TVs, iPod docks, WiFi Internet access, walk-in wardrobes, a clothes press, roomy safes, and microwaves. The feel is modern, emphasised by catchy art pieces and dark wood doors with pearl-shell mosaics.
The Landmark, Macau, is attached to a larger-than-life 24-hour casino, Pharaoh’s Palace. As well as its 451 rooms, The Landmark has Chinese, Shanghainese and Japanese restaurants, a business centre, an indoor swimming pool, and is your ticket if you’re after a themed karaoke lounge. Return guests – which are largely from the business sector – rave about the comfort of the beds, and, because of its location close to office blocks, this is a reasonable Macao business hotels choice.
Opposite the Wynn – is the lavish MGM Macau, with 600 rooms, villas and suites. It cuts a fine figure on the waterfront with its waved design. For sheer wow factor, this is a place to see. The lobby is deep and wide with reception off to the left (backed by huge abstract paintings), a sitting area to the right, and a huge red glass chandelier hanging in the centre, created by renowned American glass-blowing artist, Dale Chihuly. The same artist has a store (one of two in the world, the other being at the Bellagio in Las Vegas) in the ‘Art Corridor’ off to the left of the main lobby – a surreal light-changing tunnel lined with more glass sculptures leading to one of the hotel’s 11 eating outlets.
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| MGM GRAND reception |
Through the lobby is an atrium – the Grand Praça – modelled on a typical courtyard that you might see in Lisbon, complete with faux European buildings, tiled floor, a clock tower, a fountain, real trees, sitting areas, restaurants, and a sweeping staircase often used by couples for wedding photos. Rooms at MGM, which start at 48sq m and vary in design because of the curved nature of the building, feature 42-inch flatscreen plasma TVs, Wireless (and wired) Internet access (HK$160 per day; free for Grand Suite guests), and possibly any other amenity you could wish for. Grand Suites have TVs embedded in bathroom mirrors. The Six Senses Spa has an array of treatments on offer, as well as ‘Experience Showers’ that spurt out different scents, a herbal steam bath, flotation and vitality pools and a ‘snow’ room – no room for skiing, but, yes, it does have real snow. There are also yoga, tai chi and meditation classes, or just pop outside for a swim in the infinity pool.
The Grand Casino offers around 375 gaming tables with over 900 arm-exercising slot machines and a further 16 private gaming rooms. The Grand Ballroom can host 680 persons theatre-style while assorted function rooms and alcoves for those sound-and-fury board meetings provide versatile space for small meetings or larger conferences. This is another address to mark in your Macau casino hotels diary.
Close by, the lobby of the new 39-storey StarWorld Hotel & Casino is all giant chandeliers, marble, and fluorescent escalators. The 500 rooms (including a 6,000sq ft presidential suite) offer Broadband Internet access, 42-inch plasma TVs, and panoramic views of downtown Macau. There are nine eating and drinking outlets, as well as a VIP lounge. The hotel also has an infinity pool, gymnasium, and vast conference facilities, while the casino boasts 249 gaming tables and 280 slot machines. For something over the top, this is a worthy Macau casino hotel contender.
Not far from the ferry terminal, at Fisherman’s Wharf (more on this later), is the “boutique” Rocks Hotel, a 72-room low-rise whitewashed building with balconies, wrought-iron railings and green shutters. Walking into the lobby feels like stepping back in time to 18th-century Victorian England. Oil paintings, flock wallpaper, a sweeping marble staircase and ornamental birdcages combine to give the place a cosy olde-worlde charm. Rooms are well lit, feminine, and kitted out with claw-foot wood cabinets, blue-and-white bed linen, free standing bathtubs, and Maxwell and Williamson floral teacups.
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| Rocks Hotel suite/ photo: hotel |
Every room has a spacious balcony with sea views so why not order room service and enjoy a romantic sunset dinner with a loved one? Rooms may be dainty, but they come with modern amenities such as 32-inch flatscreen LCD TVs, complimentary Broadband Internet access, CD stereo systems, and large safes. If you enjoy a wee dram of whiskey, check out the British pub and for cocktails with a view, try the rooftop Sky Lounge. There is also a charming banquet-hall style meeting room which seats up to 12 people.
Another kid on the gaming block, the Babylon Casino, is right opposite. The Macau Fisherman’s Wharf Limousine Rental Service (with kiosks outside the casino and the convention centre) comes in handy when regular taxis are few and far between (MOP40 to the town centre, MOP70 to Taipa and MOP100 to Coloane).
Another attraction along the "Inner Harbour" is the Ponte 16 entertainment and resort complex that includes the mustard-yellow five-star Sofitel Macau at Ponte 16. Sofitel opened in August 2008, and offers a great location slap bang in the middle of Macau’s historic quarter only a short walk from Senado Square, St Paul’s Ruins and the A-Ma Temple. There is a casino attached, but the hotel manages to distinguish itself from the gaming world with its subtle flourishes, relaxing ambience and sense of history – the original clock tower still stands from the old pier. The lobby is marked by a central “time passage” – a spangled tunnel in the ceiling, which has escalators running across it leading to the casino.
Sofitel’s 408 rooms are warm toned, blend French and Chinese design, and come with a flatscreen 37-inch TV, DVD, Broadband Internet access (MOP160 per day), large safe, iron and L'Occitane toiletries. Some have nice open views out to the fishing boats bobbing on the Pearl River Delta with China just an arm’s-length away. Guests in Club Sofitel rooms get access to a lounge, which offers breakfast and evening cocktails, free Internet access, as well as personalised check-in and additional services. A multi-function meeting room has a balcony attached, while the outdoor unheated pool with its blue tiled mosaic and water-spouting cherubs is a fine spot to cool down after work (or gaming).
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| Warm hues of Sofitel Club Room |
Dinner or coffee served up poolside is perfect. There is a small fitness centre with a dedicated room for yoga. Expect spacious, well-lit, colonial interiors with grand views in most directions. A slightly unusual but fun offering is the hotel’s Michael Jackson museum, which pays tribute to the music legend (the property owner is a big fan). Entry is free and you can easily moonwalk around for half an hour or so checking out memorabilia such as MJ’s famous rhinestone glove, a tattered shirt from Thriller and even a crystal-embossed sock. Expect music videos, album artwork, mini-dolls and a time tunnel charting the singer’s career from 1958 to his death in 2009. A spa is due. VIPS staying in the top category “Mansions” get their own private entrance, lobby and lift. This ranks as a classy, in-city, choice with gaming facilities but without the clamour and clutter of the other Macau casino hotels.
The atmospheric Pousada de Sao Tiago, set on Avenida da Republica near the A-Mah temple, in the restored remains of an early-17th-century fort, is small and traditional with stone walls and floors. It’s a cool, calm haven, where you might wake up to the birds singing from a 200-year-old tree out the front of the building. Almost all of the 12 rooms have their own balcony and, after an extensive refurbishment in 2007, the décor is an eclectic mix of modern and retro.
Expect black leather floors, leather-topped desks (made from crocodile skins), traditional Chinese paintings, 40-inch Bang & Olufsen plasma TVs and DVD players, free WiFi Internet, minibar and in-room movies, and the occasional antique – one room has a globe that is over a century old. Bathrooms have TVs embedded in the mirrors, bidets, Jacuzzis and Hermes toiletries. There’s a small (but deep) pool on the premises, and a small chapel that can stand in for wedding or blessing ceremonies.
Taipa, Cotai Strip casino hotels, Coloane resorts
At the top of Taipa Island is the impressive Altira Macau (formerly Crown Macau). This stylish and contemporary 38-storey casino-hotel offers distinct experiences for its guests by creating separate entrances for gamers, residents and diners. The hustle and bustle from the 200-plus high-end gaming tables is confined to the casino resulting in a serene hotel atmosphere complemented by low lighting, endless vases of vivid red roses and floaty music. Everywhere you look you’ll see stunning vistas from the reception desk on the 38th floor to nearby Lounge 38, which serves cocktails with a view. There are also some tantalising dining options such as Japanese restaurant Tenmasa, which specialises in tempura and has a traditional charm thanks to its grey stone walls, romantic candle-lit walkways and tatami-style seating.
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| Altira/ photo: hotel |
The tranquil theme continues at the 6,000sq m spa that includes a stunning infinity swimming pool and healthy juice bar. There are 216 rooms (including eight villas) each with floor-to-ceiling windows. In-room features include a walk-in wardrobe, 42-inch plasma TV, iPod dock, portable keyboard, complimentary Internet and minibar (soft drinks only), posh teas, a long work desk separating the bedroom and lounge area, which includes a corner sofa, a circular Japanese-style bath and separate rain shower. A useful option for lovers of contemporary style, good food and high-end gaming.
Taipa Island has a few more hotel choices. One older stalwart is the Regency Hotel, the former Hyatt. The Regency is an oasis of calm for family or business stays surrounded by thrusting condominiums. The 326 rooms are well appointed and attractive, several looking onto the bay. You’ll find an open-air pool area with a Mediterranean feel, two restaurants, and 12 function rooms. Another option is Grand Waldo Hotel with 340 rooms, a casino – of course, meeting facilities, a spa, a pool overlooking the Cotai Strip, and restaurants in both the casino and hotel blocks.
But wait, there’s more. Continuing our Macau hotel guide, along the way from Taipa to Coloane, you’ll drive by the shimmering and hard-to-miss The Venetian Macao-Resort-Hotel, which opened in late August 2007, set on 10.5 million sq ft on the reclaimed Cotai Strip. The Venetian is a sister development to The Venetian Resort-Hotel-Casino and the golden Sands Macau casino near the Macau ferry terminal, and claims to be one of the largest casinos in the world.
Any Venetian Macao review involves acres of walking. We came heeled in sturdy rubber. The Venetian has its sights firmly set on staying among the best Macau casino hotels around and is pulling no punches in the Cotai brawl. As an “integrated resort” with a spa, gym and vast 350-store shopping mall, 3,000 spacious suites and exhibition and conferencing space "large enough to hold 90 Boeing 747s", The Venetian is gigantic, and getting bigger.
Expanding the empire even further is the Malo Clinic Spa which opened mid 2009. The 85,000sq ft integrated wellness centre comprises 58 spa suites, six operating theatres, 50 doctors, and an army of therapists. The Malo Clinic SPA is a specialist in dentistry that has grown to embrace wellness, preventative care, and “implantology” (plastic surgery in plain English). Now it is branching out into newer Chinese medicine of scientific bent.
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| The Venetian gaming area |
Then, lest we forget, there’s the whopper of a casino to exercise your wallet further. The 546,000sq ft gaming floor boasts about 6,000 slot machines and over 700 tables. This casino and Macau spa resort is a gigantic whimsical recreation of the "canals and icons of Venice”. If you’ve had enough of the Italian gondolas with singing gondoliers, you’ll, reassuringly, be able to catch a Chinese sampan too. The place is gunning to be among the best Macau conference hotels and, given its sheer size and glitz, this should not be beyond reach. Pick from small meetings or bigger conventions. Bring your team across for inspiration or plan a wedding at the Venetian Macao.
Best to simply kick back in one of the huge rooms that come with canopy-draped king-sized beds, sunken living areas, WiFi Internet access, two large TVs, and all-in-one fax/printer/copiers. The more the merrier in these oversized suites, so invite your mates. It’s easy to get lost in this monstrous complex, so pick up a resort map at the concierge. Since November 2008, ZAIA by Cirque du Soleil has been the resident show at The Venetian, providing a spectacular diversion from the gaming floor. Macau shopping buffs can hunt the streets of Venice for the likes of agnes b, Anteprima, b +ab, Blancpain, Bossini, Giordano, i.t, BVLGARI, Calvin Klein, Emporio Armani, Versace, and Nike. Yes, there’s a Starbucks too. As a gaming capital, The Venetian is among the top addresses in this review.
Over the road, the City of Dreams (COD) complex wages war against the Cotai big boys with an army of dragons and tigers, plus a few million gallons of water. Its September 2010 salvo came in the form of the multi-billion dollar Las Vegas-style show, “The House of Dancing Water”. The action takes place in and around a stage pool, which holds 3.7m gallons of water (the equivalent to five Olympic-sized swimming pools). Expect 90 minutes of spectacular high dives, frothing fountains, leather-clad hunks swinging from ropes, a token love story and some amazing (but puzzlingly non-aquatic) motorbike stunts. It’s best to book in advance (tickets cost from HK$380) but also watch out for good value room packages combining accommodation and shows.
Another big draw is the short (it’s only 10-minutes long) but spectacular Dragon’s Treasure show in The Bubble theatre –the world's largest special effects projection dome, which cost a cool US$40m to build. The 360-degree multi-media experience will bring you face-to-face with mighty dragons as they breathe fire and smash through ice in pursuit of the auspicious pearl. The show regularly sells out so reserve your tickets in advance. Hotel guests can skip the queue by collecting a priority pass from reception.
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| Hard Rock/ photo: hotel |
As well as eye-catching shows, COD comprises three hotels—Hard Rock, Crown Towers and Grand Hyatt. Written above the reception desk at the Hard Rock Hotel are the famous lyrics “Hello, I love you won’t you tell me your name” by The Doors. Memorabilia such as Bob Dylan’s hat and Metallica’s guitar are displayed in glass cabinets and The Killers provide suitably rocking background music. Strangely there is a distant lack of long hair, leather jackets and nose piercings—most guests appear to be cool-looking couples and respectable thirty-somethings (possibly hoping to relive their misspent youth).
The rooms aren’t exactly “wild-child drug dens”, but they do have fun rock ’n’ roll touches like guitar motifs on the Egyptian cotton pillow cases and a mini record box in the bathroom holding the Rock Spa toiletries. The overall feel is fun and funky with facilities including iPod docking stations, free Internet, cocktail kits, cool black and red slippers, tea and coffee facilities (for the dreaded morning after) and ironing equipment. The 42-inch flatscreen TV has extra chunky speakers so you can crank up the Hard Rock music video channel and air-guitar till your fingers cramp. The swimming pool plays underwater rock tunes, has a swim-up bar, plus there’s a beach area with real sand for sunbathing and volleyball. Grab your tie-dye sarong and check out the poolside weekend barbecues. If luck has been your lady friend in the casino, and you just happen to be a fan of Chinese music star Jacky Cheung, then you may want to splash out MOP59,000 to stay in the Jacky-themed Rock Star suit, which includes a piano room, two F1 race car simulators and a range of toothpaste in Jacky’s favourite flavours including bitter chocolate and cola.
If Hard Rock is the Jimi Hendrix of COD’s hat trick of hotels then Crown Towers is the Gong Li. Elegant, contemporary and subtly stylish, it is a refined retreat from the chattering crowds, which pack the neighbouring casinos and shops. Cool jazz wafts through the softly-lit lobby dotted with original Asian art pieces, fresh flowers and ornate gold screens. There are 300 guestrooms all of which offer floor-to-ceiling views of Cotai and include facilities such as complimentary Internet and minibar (soft drinks only), walk-in wardrobe, 42-inch plasma TV, iPod docking station, large safe, spacious square bath, rain shower, Vidal Sassoon hairdryer and electronic scales. For more pampering stroll to The Spa at Crown for a foot massage or for more carnivorous activities, head to Horizons restaurant for a juicy steak. There is also an outdoor heated swimming pool and a well-equipped fitness centre.
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| Grand Hyatt spa suite/ photo: hotel |
Last but not least is the Grand Hyatt Macau, which distinguishes itself from the Crown and Hard Rock by setting its sights firmly on business travellers and the MICE market in general. The entire second level is dedicated to event space with 15 individual function areas spanning 9,000sq m and a huge pillar-less ballroom covering 2,000sq m and holding up to 2,500 people. This is among the top Macau conference hotels choices. The Grand Hyatt comprises two 36-storey towers with 424 rooms in the Grand Tower and 367 rooms in the premium Grand Club Tower, each with dedicated check-in areas. You may want to draw yourself a little map for those beer-goggle moments.
Entry-level Grand Suites in the Grand Tower are 64sq m and sport a classic decor including wooden floors, leather chairs and a muted colour scheme with photos of Macau on the walls. The work desk is slightly unusual in that it’s a high table with four stools – power points are tucked neatly beneath. In fact there are handy power sockets everywhere, plus free WiFi, and a flip-out control panel for transmitting iPod, camera and laptop data through the two 40-inch LCD TVs. Storage is plentiful plus there is an iron and board, laptop-sized safe, a Nespresso machine and tins of Dragon Well and Iron Buddha tea. Although all rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows, the views over partially-developed land are hardly picturesque. The equivalent in the Grand Club Tower is the Club Deluxe room, which is smaller at only 52sq m but has the added bonus of a freestanding elliptical bath and a walk-in dressing room.
Linking all three hotels is 420,000sq ft of casino space with 400 gaming tables and 1,300 gaming machines and an equally huge shopping mall with brands such as Vivienne Westwood, Burberry and Cartier. Look out for digital mermaids dancing behind a real waterfall (which gamers believe is good luck to touch). There are also over 20 restaurants and bars ranging from Cantonese fine dining at Lung Hin to an array of global treats at Food Paradise. This is the very epicentre of the throbbing Macau casino scene.
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| Four Seasons Macao, Cotai |
If you suddenly hear lots of screaming and yelling, it’s not those chain-smoking men in the corner losing at baccarat, it means you’re approaching Kids’ City. This 1,000sq m children’s play area includes a climbing zone with zip lines and alpine slides, a bouncy tent, arcade games, a bubble fountain, an arts and crafts area, a sing-a-long room and dress-up room where little girls can become a princess for the day. Kids’ City is suitable for children aged between two and 12 and is open from 10am until 9.30pm. It costs from MOP80 per two hours (child and adult).
Four Seasons Hotel Macao, Cotai Strip is luxurious but not obviously so. It has a colonial Macanese feel with ochre walls, cream stone detailing, and hand-made tiles from the entrance through to the main lobby. The 360 rooms and suites mix Portuguese and Chinese decor with modern amenities including 42-inch plasma TVs, WiFi Internet (HK$160 per day), large safes, and multi-pin plugs. For an extra HK$500 per day (for a single; HK$700 double), guests get access to an executive lounge, which serves up breakfast and all-day snacks in addition to its personalised business and concierge services.
Feeling indulgent? Try the Royal Suite, which has a balcony with sprawling views of Coloane and Mainland China, a separate living room with 42-inch TV plus DVD, Chinese art and tasteful décor, L'Occitane amenities, and spacious bathrooms. A 1,858sq m spa is on hand with treatments, saunas, ice showers, as well as yoga and Pilates. The hotel offers five pools (two for kids) and poolside cabanas come with LCD televisions. High-end designer brand Macau shopping is the name of the game here. Shoppers have three floors of spit-and-polish stores to explore at Shoppes at Four Seasons – ogle Dior, Chanel, Loewe, COACH, and the like – and after that big splurge, recover in one of the four restaurants.
The Cotai Strip development will eventually offer a mind-boggling 20,000 rooms, changing the face of Macau forever. At the head of the Cotai strip is the 550,000sq m Galaxy Macau megaresort (opened May 2011). Sold as a child-friendly “family-orientated” resort (not forgetting several thousand gaming tables) the menu includes 2,200 rooms through three hotels—Banyan Tree, Japan’s Hotel Okura and the Galaxy Hotel.
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| Galaxy Hotel room/ photo: hotel |
Also find the world’s largest sky wave pool, a beach made from 350 tons of white sand, five more swimming pools, 50 food and drink outlets and 52,000sq m of garden space. The Banyan Tree offers 250 suites and villas in what it says is an exclusive "high-rise urban resort". The 488-room Okura offers a Japanese-style experience in a classic yet modern environment. The enormous 1,500-room Galaxy Hotel meanwhile offers an unabashed five-star escape with rooms - some with balconies - starting at 44sq m, with 42-inch LCD televisions, Wi-Fi, and "stone showers".
Queued up for late 2011 and beyond are a new Sheraton, a 600-room Shangri-La Hotel and sister Traders Hotel with a combined 1,200 rooms. Located at the Lotus Bridge immigration point on Cotai, the Macao Studio City complex with planned brands like The Ritz-Carlton, W, Marriott and The Tang Hotel, is now exceedingly quiet.
For a five-star experience in Coloane, the farthest island from Macau proper, The Westin Resort Macau is a favourite among golfers and families with young children – or those who want to get away from the city lights (there’s no casino, for a start, though The Venetian is only a 10-minute taxi ride away if the craving gets too much). Enjoy an 18-hole golf course (Macau Golf & Country Club, www.macaugolfandcountryclub.com), sea views, pleasant gardens with a large swimming pool, friendly staff and an outdoor children’s playground. The 208 well-equipped rooms have large balconies with outdoor furniture and vibrant colours. These are extraordinarily spacious at 72sq m and balconies, each large enough to manage a family of four. With 12 meeting rooms, a permanent marquee for elaborate functions, and large grassy grounds, The Westin is also a popular Macau conference hotel both for corporate meetings and company team-building exercises as well as larger events. By night the hotel doubles as a venue for fashion shows or a breezy Macau wedding dinner. The marquee can manage up to 250 guests. This is a family friendly Macau resort not to be missed if the quiet life is what you’re after. It is, after all, the face of vanishing Old Macau.
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| Bright Westin Macau/ photo: hotel |
The Pousada de Coloane, out on Coloane island, another friendly, if less polished but traditional establishment, has 30 double rooms with balconies, long run by the same Portuguese family. There’s a wonderful, large outdoor area with tables to enjoy sundowners and the views. Sunday buffet lunch here is MOP150 (with 10 percent service). A small pool will keep kids happy, and there are baby cribs available for the tots. And that wraps up our Macau casino hotels review with some modest family-friendly options, one immense kids’ club and a couple of pousadas.
Macau guide to dining and Portuguese food
Pick your cuisine. Macau has Cantonese, Portuguese and “Macanese” (a combination of Portuguese, Chinese, Indian and Malay), and everything else, from Italian to Shanghainese and Japanese. You’ll find dishes such as caldo verde (a potato vegetable soup), bacalhau (a type of fish), Portuguese sausages and “African chicken” cropping up everywhere. Good prawn dishes too. Here are some stalwarts with staying power.
For authentic Portuguese food, a great atmosphere, pretty interior and good prices, seek out A Lorcha (Rua Do Almirante Serigo, tel: [853] 2831-3193), just a stone’s throw from the A-Ma Temple and Maritime Museum. There’s lamb, calamari and Portuguese wine. Service is amicable but not speedy. This is not the kind of meal you want to squeeze in just before a meeting. Nearby Restaurante Litoral (tel: [853] 2896-7878) has a good reputation for its Macanese dishes such as curry shrimps, fried prawns and stewed duck with herbs.
Let's move the focus of our Macau guide to dining, to the offshore islands. For excellent but simple dining, cobble-stoned strolls and relaxed village life, head to the old part of Taipa Village. Every local knows Cozinha Pinocchio (tel: [853] 2882-7128), a spacious and quite famous restaurant, in Rua do Regedor, serving Macanese dishes such as charcoal-grilled squid and Portuguese sausage. You’ll also get typical Cantonese vegetable dishes. A glass of sangria is around MOP25. The one-sheet menu has photos of every dish on the menu.
Moving on from wooden puppets to baby elephants, nearby Dumbo Restaurant (tel: [853] 2882-7888) is a large space serving more Macanese food. You’ll find it on the corner of Rua do Regedor under a big Dumbo elephant sign. Small and unpretentious, A Petisqueira (tel: [853] 2882-5354), just off Taipa Village’s main road, is popular with locals for its traditional Portuguese food and great cheeses.
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| Banyan Tree suite/ photo: hotel |
Casa de Pasto San Tou Tou (tel: [853] 2882-7311) is recommended for Chinese food (especially the sweet and sour pork), though the staff may not speak English – take a Cantonese-speaking friend. Café Lisboa (tel: [853] 2884-3313) in Taipa is good for Macanese. Try the baked duck rice. For good Portuguese nosh in Taipa Village, Antonio (tel: [853] 2899-9998 or www.antoniomacau.com) is a good bet. The average cost per person is around MOP200.
Also in Taipa is Galo (tel: [853] 2882-7423), which has a cosy, rustic charm and serves a mix of home-cooked Macanese, Portuguese and Cantonese comfort dishes. This is a good value choice for families. For a down-to-earth yet stylish Portuguese restaurant try Banza (tel: [853] 2882-1519). Choose from classic dishes prepared with simplicity and flair or let the charismatic owner order for you. Lots of great wines, delicious desserts and a buzzing atmosphere. If you've had your fix of Macanese delights and fancy something different then Indian Garden (tel: [853] 2883-7088) is a big hit with the locals.
In Coloane, near the Hac Sa beachfront, you’ll find one of Macau’s most famous restaurants, the rustic Restaurante Fernando (tel: [853] 2888-2264)—widely known as simply Fernando’s. Don’t expect anything grand, and the menu is only in Portuguese (there are photos to help you choose, though). The food is hearty, if less inspired than in days of yore, but the atmosphere is enjoyable. Rather frustratingly, you can’t book a table in advance for weekends or public holidays and queues can get quite long – kill time with a glass of sangria or two. You can book during the week though.
On the same stretch of beach, but with sea views, is fellow Portuguese restaurant Miramar (tel: [853] 2888-2623). For some romantic alfresco dining ask for a table on the balcony overlooking the sea. Try chef specials such as the coffee-style steak or the stewed red beans with pork. The restaurant takes advance bookings plus has outside showers (for those wanting a pre-dinner swim) and staff can arrange a return shuttle bus for small groups coming from Macau or Taipa.
For more Macanese, try Fat Siu Lau (tel: 2857-3580) or www.fatsiulau.com.mo) near Senado Square. It is one of Macau’s oldest restaurants and dates back to 1903, although the interior has been revamped with an art deco look. There is also a branch of Fat Siu Lau near the MGM GRAND. A ‘100-year-old secret recipe’ is used for the roast pigeon marinade. The pigeon is a bit younger, of course.
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| Fisherman's Wharf/ photo: Jane McLean |
You may be a long way from the Mediterranean, but for Italian food those in the know swear by the humble Pizzeria Toscana on Calcada da Barra near the ferry terminal (tel: [853] 2872-6637). The walls are graced with signed photographs of VIPs who have dined here. For more upmarket Italian, try the Grand Lisboa’s Don Alfonso restaurant (tel: 8803-7722).
Every sweet tooth must head for Macau’s pastries, the most famous of which are Portuguese egg tarts. Margaret’s Café e Nata (near Senado Square, on Rua Almeida Costa Cabral, tel: [853] 2871-0032) is a tiny, bustling sidewalk joint with wonky tables and grey plastic stools, offering arguably the best pastries you’ll find anywhere. The egg tarts are fresh, creamy, straight from the oven and cost around MOP7. This is a great place for a cheap breakfast or coffee break, and you’ll see the locals in action. A huge croissant with cheese and ham costs around MOP12.
The Senado area itself offers more than people-watching and old buildings. Find more Portuguese egg tarts (and great noodles and congee) in a more elegant (and touristy setting) at Wong Chi Kei on the square. (Wong Chi Kei has a famous sister branch on Wellington Street in Hong Kong.)
Near the ferry terminal on the waterfront lies Macau’s Fisherman’s Wharf (www.fishermanswharf.com.mo), a shop and restaurant-lined strip with a United Nations of architectural (and food) styles: from an African village, a Roman amphitheatre, the Italian Riviera and Arabian minarets to a Chinese imperial palace. “Aladdin’s Fort” is the entrance to a theme park, which includes a man-made volcano and a war game arena, as well as the location of a 5,000sq m convention and exhibition centre. Several Macao hotels and casinos are arrayed around this area. It’s Macau, but not perhaps as you know it. Dozens of restaurants line the cobbled streets. AfriKana BBQ Restaurant (tel: [853] 8299-3678) has generous buffets and live music every night, apart from Mondays. The spicy Szechuan dishes at Hero Chinese Restaurant (tel: 2872-8807) are not bad, and the suckling pig at sister restaurant Camoes (tel: 2872-8818), serving “modern Portuguese” food, is recommended by local diners.
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| Grand Lisboa decked out at night |
Or take in the excellent views of the Pearl River Delta and city from the revolving restaurant at Macau Tower, 360° Café (tel: [853] 8988-8622), serving an international buffet.
Saucy Macau nightlife and bars
When the lights go on in Macau, drab buildings by day become pulsating neon palaces. All the casinos and hotels have bars and nightclubs, many of which go on through the night. One old institution not to be missed is the free “Crazy Paris Show” that takes place on the first floor of the Grand Lisboa casino every day from 4.30pm until midnight. Expect long legs, feathers and frills. Don’t get this show confused with the “Crazy Happy Show” at the Golden Dragon Hotel, which features exotic dancers who make the Playboy bunnies look like a bunch of nuns. More upmarket (with matching prices) is the Cinnebar at the Wynn Macau, where you can sip a cocktail or two in style until the early hours.
MGM Macau’s Lion’s Bar is a great choice for live music and an even livelier crowd. On a Friday night it’s the only place to be. Or check out the great bands at The Venetian’s Bellini Lounge. For cocktails with a spectacular view head to Altira’s 38 Lounge which as the name suggests, is way up high on the 38th floor. Sit outside for cooling breezes and a true appreciation of the neon skyline.
At night, Fisherman’s Wharf is slightly less plastic, with a bit of nightlife. There are several bars which get packed with lively locals singing karaoke and partying till dawn. The Docks (or Docas) – an area between the Macau Cultural Centre and Wynn – has a few outdoor cafes, pubs, clubs and karaoke bars, though it’s not as popular as Fisherman’s Wharf. Most of the places are located on Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen near the 20-metre statue of Gun Yam, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy.
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| Four Seasons shopping arcade: Dior |
Those wanting to put their hands in the air should take note that Macau’s prestigious nightclub Cubic has moved from AIA Tower to City of Dreams. The super cool establishment (due early 2011) looks set to put the Cotai complex well and truly on the clubber’s map. If you like your whiskey served by someone with a tail and floppy ears then you can hop over to the new Playboy Club located at the top of the Sands casino and hotel. The complex, modelled after Hugh Hefner’s Playboy Mansion (late 2010) with a whiskey bar, cigar lounge, private gaming rooms and more bunny girls than you can shake a carrot at.
Take the plunge… or take in a Macau museum
For “the world’s highest bungy-jump” from a 233m platform, head to the landmark 338m Macau Tower (tel: [853] 8988-8656; www.macautower.com.mo). Not for the fainthearted. Macau guidebooks are quick to recommend this free-fall epicentre. Adrenaline junkies might also want to try the “Long Ironwalk”, “Sport Climbing” or “Long Flying Fox” on offer on weekends and public holidays. No? Then take a lift to the top and simply admire the views from the balcony.
If you fancy some full-throttle action then rev your way over to the go-kart track at Macao Motorsports Club (www.macaummc.com) in Coloane. The track is 1.2km long and 10m wide, and 15 minutes in a 200cc kart will cost you MOP180 including the hire of full safety gear. There is also a themed restaurant and changing rooms.
For something more sedate, take in a Macau museum or two. The Wine Museum at the Tourism Activities Centre near the ferry terminal has displays and tastings (tel: [853] 8798-4188; closed Tuesdays; MOP15 for visitors over 18, including wine tasting). The five-floor Macau Museum of Art (tel: 8791-9814; www.artmuseum.gov.mo, closed Mondays) hosts temporary exhibitions by local and international artists. Permanent exhibitions include Chinese calligraphy and paintings and historical art.
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| Designer brand shopping at Wynn |
The Macau Grand Prix (held annually in November since 1954) is a huge event for Macau residents and racing enthusiasts – if you too are a racing fan but don’t happen to be in Macau for the event, check out the Grand Prix Museum (tel: 8798-4108; closed Tuesdays; MOP10 for over 18s). It’s in the same location as the Wine Museum, and a joint ticket can be bought. Dr Sun Yat-Sen Memorial House (tel: 2857-4064; closed Tuesdays; free admission) is a stately old building that pays respect to the “Father of Modern China” – family members lived here, and Dr Sun himself stayed at one time.
Expect to lose your children for at least half a day if you visit the fantastically interactive and hugely engaging Macau Science Museum (www.msc.org.mo). Corkscrew your way up the circular inside of this striking seafront building and you’ll encounter themed galleries exploring all aspects of science, health, technology and the environment. Science is well and truly brought to life through an array of challenging hands-on tasks, which include building robots, eco-puzzles and sport tests. On arrival remember to reserve your ticket for one of the mesmerising 3D screenings in the planetarium, the best of which is Dawn of the Space Age. There are only 135 seats and they regularly sell out. Admission to the museum is MOP25 and the 3D screenings are MOP45.
Macau shopping – designer brands and flea markets
The territory is a free port with no taxes or duties, and Macau shopping is not bad at all. There are a few malls with all the usual goods and brands and the new trend is for glitzy malls attached to five-star hotels, such as the Esplanade at Wynn Macau. The notables here include Chanel, Fendi, Ferrari, Gucci, Hermes, Miu Miu, Rolex, Piaget, Prada, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Versace. The Venetian meanwhile has enough shops to run the coffers of a small nation dry including (among many others) Bulgari, agnes b, Tiffany & Co., CK Calvin Klein, Omega and Vertu. Some less expensive options can also be found such as Club Monaco, French Connection, G2000, Giordano, United Colors of Benetton and the super cool i.t.
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| City of Dreams Kid's Club/ photo: hotel |
Shoppes at Four Seasons offers more than 180 luxury brands such as Coach, Audemars Piguet, Bottega Veneta, Marc Jacobs, Givenchy, Kent & Curwen, and Kate Spade, as well as a DFS Galleria. Not only does Senado Square have superb architecture and a lively atmosphere, it also has dozens of mid-range shops including The Body Shop, SaSa, Bossini, Bonjour, Levis, Esprit, Mango and Bauhaus. Of course, Senado Square is not immune from the inexorable spread of Starbucks and McDonalds.
If you’re looking for more of a “local” Macau shopping experience, you’ll find it in older parts of the city. Popular purchases include jewellery (if you buy precious metals or gems, ask for a warranty card and a receipt you can read), Chinese antiques and porcelain, electrical appliances and watches and textiles. The best jewellery stores are on Rua de Almeida Ribeiro, where there are also many Chinese herb and dried seafood shops. Also browse the shops on Avenida Infante D Henrique, or Rua do Campo (for rice paper and Chinese calligraphy). Rua da Felicidade (commonly known as “Souvenir Street”) has shops selling Macanese souvenirs as well as restaurants. It used to serve as a red-light district, but now pretty much the only red you’ll find is reserved for the distinctive, lovely doors and shutters of storefronts. This area hosts a weekend flea market.
There are many shops between the Rua dos Mercadores and Rua de San Paulo near the Ruins of Saint Paul, selling anything from wooden and rattan goods to traditional medicines (don’t be afraid to bargain). The San Domingos market in the streets behind Senado Square offers shoes, clothes and bags as well as souvenirs and lingerie, and the side streets around the Ruins of St Paul’s (such as Rua do Santo Antonio and Rua das Estalagens) have lots of furniture and antiques shops to browse.
Taipa Village has a regular Sunday flea market in the village centre, where you can pick up knick-knacks, toys and traditional crafts.
So, that’s our Macau guide to heritage, hotels and shopping in a nutshell. Grab a phrase book or two and you’re on your way.
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