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YOU’LL receive a hero’s welcome in Manila. If you’re lucky, it could be confetti, tickertape and the occasional tank. These are the expensive toys employed by revolutionaries, demonstrators and the government – necessary distractions in one of Asia’s most robust and colourful democracies – to welcome travellers, along with serenading minstrels. It’s a tropical cocktail like no other.
Several years ago in Manila I learned heavily armed men strapped with explosives had taken over the airport control tower. An even more heavily armed SWAT team bristling with ordnance had then stormed the place, firing automatic weaponry. All that was missing was King Kong. Reassured by these signs of normalcy, the passengers all went about their regular business. Yet the tension was mounting. Inside, screaming, stampeding, and gesticulating travellers provided ample proof – that airport staff simply do not appreciate the average Filipino’s ability to pack the entire contents of Mindanao in a carry-on bag. Even we draw the line at live chickens. Chickens were not designed to fly, even in economy. And this is the lively street theatre that assails visitors from all sides as they enjoy this country’s unique blend of old world and new, power and pathos, commerce and carnival.
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| Business is deer to Makati's heart |
At hotels you’ll find the customary friendly Filipino greeting. A Labrador with a wet nose sniffed my bags and parts of my anatomy unmolested since my mother demanded to check my underwear before I left for school. Sniffer dogs are hard at work in The Philippines ensuring that hotel guests change their underwear daily and lobbies are free of B.O. It’s a pretty thorough going-over. Everything gets opened. Bags. Cameras. Parasols. And then comes the handheld metal detector. You may even discover your g-spot and throw up your hands in delight. But it’s friendly and oddly reassuring, especially if you happen to like dogs. I photographed mutts at work, asleep, drooling, at attention, sprawled out. It’s a tough business having a nose for trouble.
And then come those heart-melting Filipina smiles. It’s all worth it. Hotel staff here are second to none. But before we delve into our Manila business hotels review and go head-to-head with the Big Two in Makati – The Makati Shangri-La and The Peninsula Manila – let’s finish with the airport.
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Arriving and departing Manila Airport
Security at Ninoy Aquino International Airport (NAIA) is tight. Departures entail three levels of security screenings, one right at the entrance for bags. Later, hang on to your trousers as you drop your belts, bags, computers, shoes and inhibitions. Everything gets checked and you’ll be patted down courteously too. While most airlines insist on a 100ml-bottle perfume and liquids rule for cabin baggage, Manila Airport is tough on the carriage of any liquid in your carry-on. This rule appears to be softening but, to be safe, place these items in your check-in baggage or run the risk of having it all confiscated.
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| Watch that GAP, Makati stares |
Most travellers to Manila will be well acquainted with the musty, concrete corridors of the International Airport Terminal 1 occasionally enlivened by wandering minstrels strumming guitars. The Centennial Terminal (T2) is the exclusive domain of the flag carrier Philippine Airlines (PAL). And the newest building, Terminal 3, is a gleaming enclave for Cebu Pacific, Philippine Airlines and domestic airlines.
Arriving visitors are usually spared the tedious inspection reserved for outbound passengers. Customs checks are quick and, with just carry-on and a well-timed flight in, you could be from gate to taxi in 10 to 15 minutes. For the cheapest ride into town, exit the airport, cross the lane, and head down the stairs to the street level where the local taxis are parked. Be warned, it can be a scrum. A cab ride to the Makati commercial area where most of the exclusive Manila business hotels are located will cost about PP200 or so depending on traffic and the ingenuity of your driver. The bright and clean Yellow Cab metered taxis are a godsend. Airport Taxis from T1 to Makati cost P440 (roughly US$1 = P43). Purchase a coupon for one of these just outside the arrivals area.
Departing passengers pay a terminal fee of P750. This is forked out just before immigration where a sign will caution you against “cracking jokes about bombs”. Manila airport duty-free shopping is pretty limited and not terribly competitive. A Johnnie Walker Black Label one-litre bottle costs US$32, with a one litre 12-year-old Chivas priced at US$33. The BVLGARI Rose Essentielle 50ml eau de toilette is US$69 though there are specials on combinations and smaller sizes. Meanwhile a 50ml eau de toilette of J’adore by Dior has jumped from US$53 to US$69. Or pick up a Salvatore Ferragamo silk tie for US$150. Of course, the plunging dollar means that these goodies are getting dearer by the day.
The SMART telecoms company and assorted other providers all want your business and often station pretty girls to waylay you upon arrival and reset your mobile phone to their frequency. Not a problem.
Makati business hotels review
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| Peninsula Grand Deluxe, Ayala Wing |
Built in 1976 for the International Monetary Fund bash, The Peninsula Manila (with the definite article “The”) sits proudly at the intersection of Ayala and Makati Avenues, both busy arteries of commerce. The 497-room hotel has undergone steady renovation. The Ayala Tower has had a facelift and rooms and suites in the Makati Tower have also blossomed anew. The classical lobby continues to hold the cognoscenti in thrall. During the aborted coup on 29 November, 2007, rebel soldiers, perhaps tempted by the superlative high teas and chocolate, headed here instead of Congress and stormed the hotel for a cuppa. It all ended peaceably and travellers got their money’s worth. It is after all a tale worth telling, anywhere. Shots fired then (into an empty lobby) have left a modest, if characterful, mark in the artwork hanging behind the reception. High-flying guests staying at this excellent address are also likely to be shot – but by flashing cameras – as The Peninsula Manila is an unreservedly top-drawer affair attracting both the beau monde and pinstriped business executives.
The latest in glitz is the 1930s Shanghai high camp throwback lounge bar, Salon de Ning, which opened December 2010. This is a riot of playful art and mischievous snuggeries in dark mood-lit corners that cover everything from a giant beady-eyed King Kong clambering up the Empire State to a shoes room and a boxing den. Say hello to the red papier mache horse and wander in for a stiff tipple to the sound of tinkling ivories and hip music by live bands and fast-fingered DJs. The Bar (again with the definite article “The”) sports a darkly chic new look. Escolta’s scrumptious buffets, Spice Garden’s Asian flavours and upscale Old Manila’s European favourites further expand the menu to suit most tastes.
How do The Peninsula Manila and Shangri-La Makati compare inside? Let’s take a look. The Pen’s bedrooms are enormous. And this is an understatement. The hotel was built at a time when travel meant style, and space, not a modern assembly-line box. The smallest rooms start at 40sq m. Sure enough, there’s enough carpet area for a small workout if you are so inclined though you could just as easily pop down to the fitness centre. The room smorgasbord runs from Superior and Deluxe to Grand Deluxe, Club Deluxe and Suite.
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| Horsey welcome at Peninsula's Salon de Ning |
The Peninsula offers free in-room Internet access and WiFi in public areas. What is a niggling annoyance at most hotels in this day of “free information” is a delight here. Plug in (using the supplied cable) and get to work mailing your boss or viewing saucy pictures.
A corner Grand Deluxe in the more corporate-style Ayala Wing offers a bed large enough to entertain a small family and a HUGE vertical in-room safe to house a large laptop, cameras, video, and valuables, if not your mother-in-law. The smart black wood worktable offers enough finger-tapping elbow room and comes with Internet and dial-up modem ports (with Ethernet cable supplied) as well as two three-pin (multi) electric sockets. The hair drier is powerful enough to knock down a grown man at 20 paces and is thus, sensibly and permanently, plugged into a drawer socket by the mirror. Not for The Pen the timorous gasp of a midget drier to tickle the eyelashes. The shower, alas, is hand-held though it produces a satisfyingly powerful wake-up jet with instant hot water. Look forward to DAVI toiletries, a flat-screen TV, and a guest-friendly bedside console that runs everything from the curtains to the aircon at the tap of a finger.
No more poltergeists. That spooky, interminable creak emanating from the “capiz” mother-of-pearl shell headboard that crackled at every inflection of changing room temperature is gone. Now it’s a black coconut shell headboard.
The Peninsula Manila offers all modern facilities including electronic card keys that you will need to get to your floor though the slot is placed unusually low in the lift, at a child’s height. Hotel staff are bright, cheerful, and attentive and their service rivals the best in the country. Add to this an old world flavour, string quartets in the gossipy high-ceiling lobby, a pool surrounded by lush greenery, and The Peninsula Spa. There is little doubt that The Peninsula remains among the best Manila business hotels for the executive on the go or as a classy conference venue. It is certainly among the top Makati business hotels and should be on everyone’s short list.
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| Makati Shangri-La Exec Suite/ photo: hotel |
The gleaming, modern, 699-room Makati Shangri-La, Manila is just across Ayala Avenue, in the heart of Makati 's Central Business District right next to the shopping. It is in many ways the antithesis of the reserved Pen, younger, bold, brash, large, and trendy. The hotel has cheerfully reinvented itself a few times and outlets have come and gone in mysterious succession. The funky Zu bar has made way for the Quezon Ballroom, while Red with its high-back crimson chairs and startling white décor, Circles café, and the thrumming Conway’s bar where you can quaff all the wine or beer you want for just around P500 during happy hour, keep guests enthralled. Wine aficionados can even enjoy an all-you-can-drink wine buffet at the Lobby Lounge most evenings. It’s enough to make anyone happy, or at least bleary eyed.
As at many hotels, security is tight, very tight. Expect the usual well groomed Labrador, hand searches, and metal-detectors. The hotel will soon employ a handheld device that scans not just for weapons but also for drugs, like ecstasy. Another good reason to bring your teenage kids here for a good scanning while you enjoy the endlessly flowing wine. There are no electronic key cards for the lift. But if you’ve made it in past the roving security and checkpoints, you are a genuine guest, celebrity, or royalty.
Let’s step inside. The rooms at the Makati Shangri-La are bright and gold-hued – with elaborately curving and sensuous blonde wood walls (The Pen prefers dark wood) that entertain the eyes and enliven the diminished space. It’s a ship cabin room that runs long rather than square as at The Pen and the Superior room at 38sq m is a tad smaller. Rooms have a normal box TV, which shows CNN and any channel you care to peruse all the same, while suites offer the now obligatory flat-screen TVs.
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| InterContinental room/ photo: hotel |
The hair drier is a good size, there is a fax in all rooms, a large work desk with leather chair, a smallish safe (for jewellery but not a laptop) and a very thoughtful iron and ironing board. The classic round dial clock can be placed anywhere and a flashlight is at hand should you have overindulged at Conway’s and can’t find your nose. The bathroom is fairly compact though not small by any means, with a jet shower, and a separate bathtub. If you’re a workaholic, shell out for Broadband though WiFi is free in the lobby, restaurants and other public areas.
Members of the Horizon Club may avail of exclusive perks such as coddling by butlers and free Internet workstations at the Horizon Club. The hotel also features a comprehensive fitness centre and an open-air podium pool that catches a generous amount of sun. There is no signature CHI spa here (this is currently the preserve of the sister property at EDSA) but there are five rooms for all varieties of treatments and massage. The hotel has a definite buzz about it and front office and guest-relations staff are on the ball. People will reach for your bags and show you around the moment you step in.
And that’s the two best Manila business hotels for you, not just in Makati. Stately? Or slick? Take your pick.
A Makati stalwart, indeed one of the original occupants of this prime stretch of Manila real estate, the InterContinental Manila, offers easy access to commerce and recreation with its central location. Right next door is the Ayala Center, a large commercial establishment complete with theatres, shopping and dining. The hotel’s age is sadly all too apparent in the inherited grey concrete shell that pales by comparison to its more illustrious neighbours. Yet, this Makati business hotel with 335 rooms including 59 suites and 42 Club InterContinental rooms has made a dramatic comeback with fresh renovations and new-look interiors. The makeover has been nothing short of dramatic. The new incarnation proudly sports a penthouse Club InterContinental lounge with wraparound Makati views, classy touches, atmospheric lighting, free Internet access, and a steady supply of canapés and drinks.
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| New World Executive Room/ photo: hotel |
The hotel boasts one of the largest outdoor freeform swimming pools around. Shave some vacation fat off with the hotel’s fitness facilities or enjoy a massage after a shopping blitz. Rooms offer paid Internet access, work tables with ergonomic chairs, a small safe (that will house a video camera if not a laptop) and a variety of bathroom styles, some with showers, others with bathtubs and that must-have drizzle. Yes, there is a hair drier but it lacks zing. Among Makati conference hotels, the InterContinental pulls some weight, with eight function rooms and one spacious Grand Ballroom, all with overhead projectors, high-speed Internet and modern audio-visual equipment. There is much catching up to be done as yet. The hotel has no real focal point in the lobby, no general convivial meeting place, and the bar to one side, while secluded, is almost an afterthought and a far cry from the bustle and elegance of the Shang or The Pen.
A rebranded address close to the Greenbelt action is the 598-room New World Makati City Manila Hotel (formerly the Renaissance Makati City Hotel, Manila). This highrise tower is just a few steps away from restaurants, shops and bars. Everywhere you turn you’ll encounter a slew of upscale designer brands and local fare. The refurbished hotel offers executive services like a Business Centre with Internet, fax, and secretarial backup. There are nine boardrooms for corporate meetings and a pillar-free 675sq m Grand Ballroom for a more lavish event. Also find a fitness centre, open-air pool, and the Marahai Spa for an after-hours rubdown.
Superior rooms start at 34sq m and come with Broadband Internet (charged), iron and ironing board, coffee and tea-making facilities, satellite TV, marble bathroom with separate shower cubicle and bathtub and that all-essential hairdryer. Executive Club Deluxe rooms have irons and ironing boards, long work desks and the usual mod-cons including a 37-inch LCD TV, weighing scale and, usefully, complimentary Internet access. In-room colours are brighter with burgundy and gold bed-runners enlivening the ensemble. Guests also have access to the Executive Club Lounge with its breakfasts, afternoon teas and cocktails. One-Bedroom Suites offer more stretch room at 48sq m. This used to be a less-pricey choice among Makati business hotels with a good location offering quick access in and out of the area without getting snarled up in the legendary Manila gridlock. With the name change and upgrades expect rates to climb.
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| Mandarin Oriental, defiant/ photo: hotel |
The Mandarin Oriental Manila is a staid if fairly popular choice on the Makati business hotels line-up though it has been somewhat becalmed with business traveller currents moving towards the guest-rich neon-lit Makati area near the Shangri-La where shopping and nightlife have mushroomed. The Mandarin has fought back. It is no slouch when it comes to food. The eight restaurants and bars, including the smart and cosy street-side Martinis with lively jazz and intriguing "mixology", make the accommodations seem like an afterthought. Rooms are elegant, traditional, and corporate, with light colours and bed-runners. Nothing overly trendy here. Just useful, easy-on-the-eye space and excellent service.
Superior and Deluxe rooms start at 34sq m with Executive Corner rooms going up to 43sq m. And, after-hours, The Spa at Mandarin Oriental Manila, offers a sensual escape amidst décor redolent of mystical Thailand. Or opt for the pool. Expect a Health Club and child-friendly services like a kids' menu. This 18-storey hotel has 443 rooms. The Mandarin Oriental Manila makes a good stab at positioning itself as a Makati conference hotel with around 15,000sq ft of function space including a ballroom large enough to accommodate 1,000 guests.
The 548-room Dusit Thani Manila is another old warhorse that has had a shot of Viagra. It now sports a gleaming black-marble lobby with soaring golden pillars. The hotel comes with 14 meeting and banqueting rooms equipped with modern apparatus and the ability to host gatherings of up to 1,000 guests. This is a well-utilised Makati conference hotel with ease of access into and out of the area. The in-house fitness centre DFiT serves up 973sq m of exercise and sauna space, while the Devarana Spa is a rejuvenation hideaway.
The hotel has seven bars and restaurants that serve Japanese, Royal Thai, Italian and of course Filipino fare. In-room expect refurbishment touches including pastel brown furnishings, flat-screen TV, hairdryer and Internet access (charged per hour or day). The Superior rooms start at a smallish 28sq m with a Corner King at 45sq m.
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| Ascott Makati twin towers |
Also in Makati, a bit away from the traffic and thrum of the central shopping and business area, the 167-room Berjaya Manila Hotel is a value proposition for executive travellers, modern, neat, unfussy and clean. The 31sq m Deluxe Rooms are well laid out with a work desk, TV and a comfortable queen-size bed. The scheme is enlivened by silk bed runners, cushions, and brightly coloured head walls. Expect WiFi and inroom safes. Suites go up to 47sq m, which is a bit more stretch room, with the two-bedroom Executive Suite at 78sq m. Meeting rooms can handle up to 200 persons in the largest function area.
Makati service apartments and longstays
The 30-storey twin tower Ascott Makati (formerly Oakwood Premier apartments) is right smack in the middle of the Ayala Center and the Glorietta 4 shopping mall. Its 306 apartments include studios, one to three-bedroom residences and penthouses. Make use of Broadband access in each apartment at US$20 per day or go Wireless in the public areas. Long-staying guests may also avail of special rates. Expect an outdoor pool, two outdoor tennis courts, spa and massage rooms. In-room facilities include TV, fridge, microwave, toaster, cooking range and coffee machine. Security may be a tad heavy at times. A Filipina friend of mine with a family pedigree demanding instant prostration has been stopped several times at the elevator by anxious guards suspicious of Asian faces. She told me she made it to the upper-floor restaurants, eventually. Another Makati service apartment and longstay option is its sister-property Somerset Olympia Makati. Close to The Peninsula, it is the cheapest of three Somersets in town, and with an excellent location though cabs are not the easiest to come by on Makati Avenue at peak hours.
A quality option for a Makati service apartment is Fraser Place Manila, near Salcedo Village not far from the Mandarin Oriental. Expect well-appointed residences with jet pools and multi-point showers, TV with DVD hook-up, Broadband, hairdryer, large refrigerator, microwave, cutlery and iron with ironing board. A handy feature is all apartments come with a maid’s room and toilet. There is also an open-air pool, a play area for kids, a wading pool, gym, and business centre for the dads. Internet is complimentary with most packages.
Makati budget hotels
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| Even guard dogs take a break |
Oxford Suites Makati, located close to P Burgos Street – Makati’s red-light row – offers convenient access to the city’s business district, plus its more playful nooks. This is a useful Makati budget hotel of sorts with in-room cable TV, mini-bar, safe, Internet access, WiFi in the lobby, business centre, coffee shop and function rooms. Smack on P Burgos is the Citadel Inn Makati with in-room cutlery, kitchenware, fridge, mini-bar and a swimming pool on the sixth floor. The hotel even has a small business centre. A studio here will set you back just around P2,500. WiFi is available (charged per day) and the front desk has a safe to store your valuables. The area is teeming with restaurants from Japanese and Korean to Thai, Chinese and American.
A reasonably cheap Manila budget hotel is the gleaming Makati Palace Hotel. It is brash, loud, in the centre of P Burgos, and better appointed than its simpler neighbours. You can get rates of around P3,050 (US$74) here or lower, depending on the season. There is a swimming pool, gym, business centre and complimentary shoeshine on the Royal Executive Floor. This is one of those tawdry over-the-top establishments you won’t mind using for the cheap room rate but you’ll need to don shades when you step out lest your friends spot you and have you arrested.
For those flying in for a budget weekend, it doesn’t get much cheaper than Saint Illian's Inn in Makati. Its deals (for about US$40) can conjure a smile upon the most hardened faces, and the place is smack in the middle of everything. All the basic requisite comforts are available – Cable TV, shower with hot and cold water and air-conditioning.
Paramount’s clean and comfortable 20-room Salcedo Suites at LPL Manor have air-conditioning, cable TV and fridge and start as low as around US$50 on an Internet deal.
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| Hyatt Hotel & Casino room/ photo: hotel |
Manila business hotels and leisure stays
First off, figure out where your work is. As the crow flies, Manila (the Roxas Avenue area along the seafront and the government offices) and Makati (the business and financial hub) are just a few kilometres apart. But as the car travels – especially at peak time – a commute can be a test of patience and skill. Plan ahead. Manila business hotels are varied though this area tends to also attract a leisure crowd.
Find the large and modern 378-room Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila in the upper Malate area. With four levels of casino space (one exclusively for foreigners) this is one of the largest facilities for high-rollers. The contemporary state-of-the-art ballroom offers 6,763sq ft of flexible space that can handle a 600-person sit-down dinner. Not surprisingly this is a hotel gunning for MICE business. For the uninitiated, this means meetings, incentives, conferences and exhibitions. At Club Oasis guests can enjoy spa facilities, a fitness centre, sauna, hot and cold plunge pools and a 35m lap pool.
The premier Regency Club offers business travellers all the little extras and personalised service. In-room there's a work station, flat-screen TV, a DVD and CD player and Broadband access that is charged at P850 per day. Rooms are bright and airy on account of the extra-high ceilings and large glass windows that create a nice sense of space. Bathrooms are well lit and welcoming, with rain showers.
Pastel wallpaper mutes the contemporary in-room tone contrasted by bright cushions and textured fabric that adds Filipino spice. For dining expect Lily for Chinese with Cantonese accents and the Fireplace grill room with a selection of over 800 fine wines. Nothing like a bit of wine to get the gaming started. The exterior is a rather bright mustard yellow that may not be to everyone's taste but the interiors are crisp and modern. This is among the top Manila business hotels in the area.
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| Diamond Hotel overlooks the Bay |
The Hyatt is part of a cluster of three hotels that will catch your eye. This is where you’ll find the gracious Diamond Hotel Philippines (formerly Manila Diamond). The Diamond’s bars and restaurants have won numerous accolades and service is crisp with a smile. Its rooms are fashionably European in taste and style – they offer a smart environment with luxury trim and silk cushions. All rooms have Broadband Internet access charged per hour or day. WiFi is charged as well. This 27-storey hotel offers great views along Roxas and across the bay. End-of-day wind-down options include the outdoor pool, a massage at Diamond Spa and perhaps a sauna to slough off that daytime Manila muck.
The Pan Pacific Manila is a contemporary hotel adjacent to Robinson’s Mall. All rooms are equipped with high-speed Internet connections, which are available for a fee of P800 per day, and a CD player. Rooms offer hypo-allergenic bedding for the extra-sensitive,a TV you can view from the bathtub, and 24-hour butler service. There is a business centre, several function rooms and a grand ballroom. All three hotels in this area stake their claim to being the best Manila conference hotel choice and, with the Philippine International Convention Center and the Cultural Center of the Philippines, or CCP, across Roxas Avenue, this is perhaps something to heed if business brings you to this area.
The cheaper Bayview Park Hotel is on upper Roxas Boulevard not far from the stately but ageing Manila Hotel that has been home to just about every head of state and celebrity that’s ever visited The Philippines. This goes back all the way to Douglas McArthur and right up to Michael Jackson. Experience hoary Philippines hospitality, old world furnishings and decor, and creaking waiters at the 570-room Manila Hotel. It was for a while overrun by conventioneers and general onlookers keen to snap the chandeliers and pose for weddings but is reclaiming some of its earlier poise and pride with a revamp. Internet is available and there’s WiFi in the lobby. Worth a look-see and useful if you are visiting on government business. In this general area you'll also spot the Manila Floating Hotel. Yes, this is a docked ship.
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| H2O rooms are neat and minimalist |
Despite a great build-up the Hotel H2O is a somewhat disappointing addition to the Manila Bay sweep. The rooms are interesting enough, if quirky, but the bizarre location, smack in the middle of Manila Ocean Park jammed with tour buses and overrun by screaming schoolchildren, is enough to crimp anyone’s style. More so as this is a high-end design offering not really aimed at families. That said, head up a distant lift to the third-floor lobby to be greeted by friendly, welcoming staff.
The 128 rooms and 19 suites are minimalist, some in a loft-style split-level design. The décor is lightwood and pastel and many rooms offer HUGE views out over the bay, especially corners. Bedrooms are pleasing with flatscreen TVs, notebook-size safes, and some have walls with built-in bedside aquariums. Suites are split-level with high glass windows, black-and-white furnishings and a Jacuzzi with a view. All rooms offer a complimentary minibar and free WiFi. Later stroll down to the boardwalk of the bay-facing White Moon Bar.
Along the mid-point of Roxas Avenue is the Traders Hotel Manila by Shangri-La with views of Manila Bay, an outdoor pool, fitness centre, Traders Club accommodation for executive guests featuring 36sq m rooms with high-end furnishings, Broadband, satellite TV, and writing desk, and the Traders Club lounge with flowing refreshments and cocktails. Regular in-room Internet is charged per hour or day.
Also on Roxas is the excellent little G Hotel Manila by Waterfront. It’s a mouthful of a name for a small friendly property with 50 rooms housed in seven storeys offering personalised service and a boutique hotel experience. Service is attentive, smiling and brisk. Walk in without being eaten alive by a salivating dog. Nearby are the now closed Admiral Hotel and a useful, pretty clean, Manila budget hotel option, the Aloha Hotel. Don’t expect too much here but all the basics are available for under US$60 a night.
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| Sofitel Philippine Plaza room/ photo: hotel |
For one of the best Manila conference hotels, secluded, resort-style and by the bay, take a look at the Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila, once a concrete relic from the Marcos years, now a revitalised bit of real estate humming with French flair and artistry. Check out their popular buffets at Spiral looking onto generous gardens and open ocean vistas. Upstairs, Le Bar offers a more clubby, leather-chair experience. The 609-room Sofitel is geared firmly towards the business traveller and conventioneer though over weekends it caters with aplomb for Filipino families enjoying an outing.
Sited right next to the Philippine International Convention Center, guests attending conferences and meetings at this venue need only invest in a three-minute walk to the site. A 42sq m Superior room is kitted out in pastel tones with pale gold bed runners and burgundy trim. There is a regular classic-face clock, a generous work desk with ergonomic chair, SONY flatscreen TV and a DVD player. Rooms are minimalist and simple but bright. Expect coffee and tea facilities, an iron and ironing board, a notebook-size safe, a compact bathing area with shower (no tub) and hairdryer. Some rooms have been redone with small see-through glass partitions separating the bedroom and bath. Many offer private balconies looking onto Manila Bay.
The Sofitel Suites are a generous 84sq m with large king-size bed called “My Bed”. Of course! All of these rooms have balconies a reclining sofa and a long work desk with three sockets including two that are multi-pin. For the bathing area expect twin vanities, and a bathtub with shower. The large Living Room serves up another 46-inch TV and a second work desk. Get a rubdown at Le Spa, make use of the hotel’s putting greens and driving range, work out on the all-weather floodlit tennis courts, try your hand at petanque, jog, or avail of the 24-hour fitness centre. A large free-form pool is set in gardens overlooking the bay. It includes a children’s area and small water slides. Not far from here is the cruise departure area for Corregidor Island, an interesting side trip for the road-weary.
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| Sofitel poolside and kiddy water slides |
And yes, getting to Makati or back from here during peak hours is well nigh Mission Impossible. At other times, it’s a 15-minute breeze. In-room Internet is available free for three hours and then charged. All in, this is a good Manila child-friendly hotel.
Not far from here the 450-room The Heritage Hotel Manila, once a sprightly smart option, popular with business travellers, and deemed to be conveniently equidistant from the airport, the bay area and Makati, has evolved into a hellhole in the middle of nowhere. The only view you’ll get from here is of traffic and belching jeepneys. At night, the girlie bars take over across the road with loud karaoke music and blaring disco.
The minimal security at the door is perhaps fortuitous for the ladies working late shifts at the dance clubs nearby. Internet is available at a small charge per day. Facilities include a pool and fitness centre. The refurbished Millennium Club rooms offer a better sanctuary with views of Manila Bay and the city. There is a small casino too. Millennium Hotels and Resorts who operate this establishment have many excellent hotels in their stable. Heritage, unfortunately, is not one of these. An advantage of sorts to this location is its proximity to the Mall of Asia, one of the biggest anywhere. Shop till you drop.
Manila casino hotels, airport area
Right across from Terminal 3 in Newport City (Pasay) is the 342-room Marriott Hotel Manila, a mid-rise city-resort complex. Its location close by the airport offers quick access to the casinos and gaming of Resorts World Manila as well as the 18-hole Villamor Golf Course. View this then as a Manila casino hotels choice, a family getaway, or simply a multi-purpose business traveller address. In-room expect Internet acces, 40-inch hi-def TV, a good array of food and beverage outlets and the Quan Spa. For conference-planners there’s the Grand Ballroom and nine meeting rooms for assorted functions.
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| Manila Marriott/ photo: hotel |
Resorts World Manila (tel: [63-2] 836-6333) is an integrated entertainment and gaming complex. Its accommodations include the luxury Maxims Tower and, shortly, the Remington Hotel. Maxims, run by the Genting Group is an all-suite affair with 172 keys. For something more upscale there are three villas and the 600sq m Presidential Suite.
Ortigas, and Manila long-stay hotels and serviced apartments
In this fast developing business and commercial district, the 263-room Crowne Plaza Galleria Manila offers a smart product with outdoor pool, gym, spa, business centre and Internet at P900 per hour. Check out the Red Corner fitness club. It is also called the “boxing club” and if your boss has been particularly curmudgeonly you can choose your martial art and have a go. Feel better? The Kiddie Corner will take care of tiny tykes and the Robinson’s Galleria Mall next door has a Toys R Us. The linked 284-room Holiday Inn Galleria Manila (formerly the Manila Galleria Suites) offers pool, gym and spa, with a published rate starting at P6,650 though seasonal specials will be cheaper. Both these properties are located near Ortigas Center.
Stay for one day or one hundred days at Oakwood Premier long-stay serviced apartments in Ortigas, along ADB Avenue, 30 minutes from the airport. Located within the Joy-Nostalgia Center, Oakwood Premier offers 233 apartments with fully-equipped kitchens, lounge space and all the facilities you would expect in a five-star hotel. This includes pool, Broadband access, children’s play area, room service, fitness centre, and full business and meetings facilities. Studios start at 41sq m with the three-bedroom suite stretching over 182 sq m, each bedroom with its own en suite bathroom. Décor is modern but homely with enough TVs to keep screaming kids, wives or bosses at bay. Among Manila long-stay hotels, Oakwood stands a cut above with an official “deluxe” rating.
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| Oakwood in Ortigas/ photo: hotel |
Adjacent to two major shopping centres (Megamall and Shangri-la Mall), the top dog in the Ortigas area is unquestionably the 632-room Edsa Shangri-la Manila, which provides easy access – when traffic is flowing, of course – to any part of Manila via its main artery, the Epifanio De Los Santos Avenue (or EDSA). Its alluring CHI The Spa has 3,000sq m of treatment suites, body scrub rooms with heated floors and relaxation lounges. Although the brand tends to channel the spirit of the Himalayas, it does feature locally-inspired treatments using banana leaves, coconut milk and indigenous herbs. The Tower Wing superiors start at 34sq m with a Premier going up to 46sq m. Edsa Shangri-La is among the more sought after Manila conference hotels for big to small meetings.
The Discovery Suites complex is a premier serviced apartment building in the heart of the Ortigas business district and it is well worth a look. It has all the trappings of a business hotel with the comforts of home. Rooms come with unlimited Internet access, pay-per-view movie channels, a fully-stocked kitchen and local daily newspapers. It has a busy feel and attracts a mixed clientele. Broadband is available in the rooms at P675 per day.
The Astoria Plaza Hotel is strolling distance from Megamall, Shangri-La Plaza, and Robinsons Galleria while Makati is 30 minutes away by cab. In-hotel amenities include a spa, health centre and a beauty salon. The hotel’s two-bedroom suites come fully loaded with everything including a kitchen. The Richmonde Hotel, also at the Ortigas Center, is a bit more upscale. The rooms all come with Broadband Internet access, cable TV, a personal safe and a data port for fax and data modems. Internet usage and a buffet breakfast can be thrown in for a small fee.
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| EDSA Shangri-La CHI the Spa/ photo: hotel |
Manila budget hotels and pensiones
Paramount’s Atrium Hotel in Pasay offers comfortable rooms with mini-bar, IDD telephones, cable television, and a bathroom with a bathtub and a handy hair-drier. This is not a budget hotel but a limited service value hotel that offers online rates from as low as US$50 or better.
Malate Pension located on Adriatico Street in Malate, is for budget travellers who want to stay close to the action. Rates are low but bottom-feeders can crawl down to about US$9 for a dormitory-style set-up. Both fan-cooled and air-conditioned rooms are available at cheap rates.
For another cheap Manila hotel option explore the Cove Budget Hotel that offers basic fare in Malate. No hot water on tap though, but what would you expect at around US$15 or less per night? You will need to share the bathroom, rooms are on the small side, and the sheets are a musty grey, but there are air-conditioned rooms too with bathrooms. This is one of the more popular cheap Manila hotel options.
Getting around Manila
Moving about in Metro Manila isn’t terribly challenging, though you will want to keep an eye on taxi drivers out to make a fast buck. Availing of hotel transport is considerably more expensive than just walking out of the lobby and flagging a street cab. Most areas of direct interest are about P100-P150 from the Makati area. Make sure your driver turns his meter on – some will conveniently “forget”. Rush hour can be maddening so do bear this in mind.
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| Greenhills: offbeat ac+632 |
The Manila-Makati cross town could take over an hour-and-a-half if you’re unlucky, or a typhoon is sweeping into town. There are also three metro rail systems that make life a bit, if not a lot, more convenient. The MRT or Metro Rail Transit travels the length of EDSA, a major artery that runs through the length of the city. There is a stop near the Dusit.
Manila shopping is fun. No doubt about that. But, while selections are vast, well presented and engaging, prices are often higher than in Hong Kong or Singapore. Malls are conveniently clustered together for ease of access.
The seamless stretch of modern Greenbelt malls showcases Makati shopping at its best. These offer a tad more class and quiet, and feature a variety of upscale designer fashions for that Manila shopping binge. Pop into BVLGARI, DKNY, PRADA or Marc Jacobs. Browse outlets like Firma (tel: 757-4009), which does jewellery and Panama hats from Ecuador at P4,500 up and its sister outlet ac+632 (tel: [63-2] 758-2564) with a wild assortment of funky accessories and home décor (pick up a pearl-handled walking stick for P2,500). Also available are outlets from Balenciaga, Banana Republic, Zara, Bijou, Bratpack (for American oversized and tough-wear gear), Adora (bags and clothes), Marks & Spencer, Levi’s and Nike. Next to Greenbelt Four is the Ayala Museum with its popular Philippine history dioramas. Moving through Greenbelt Five and beyond the shopping gets even more diverse. Expect Steve Madden bags and shoes, sinequanon, Calvin Klein jeans and underwear, Breitling, Chopard, Omega, Rolex, Patek Philippe, a huge Adidas, Gola (bags) and La Senza for sexy lingerie.
Stop by Sou Mak Bed 'n Beddings (tel: 757-3914) showcasing a range of bed linen from the Philippines. At The Landmark find hordes of people pottering about the bargain shopping displays. The Glorietta complex, or “The Quad” at the heart of the Makati shopping action has everything from Nautica to Marks & Spencer, eats, junk food, and lots of distraction for kids.
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| Shoes at Landmark mall |
Pick up women’s shoes for P800-P1,000 and assorted clothes. The newer Glorietta 5 stands alone with a clutch of fun pubs and restaurants, a tad more upscale than the central Quad. Next to the Shangri-La in Makati, 6750 Ayala houses top-end European brands and designs. Next door, at Rustan’s you’ll find fragrances and jewellery.
A good place for a long afternoon’s trawl is the Galleria-Megamall-Shangri-La cluster. This group of malls is readily accessible via the MRT. From your hotel, it will be more convenient and expeditious to take a cab to the nearest station — Taft Avenue for those in the Manila Bay area and Ayala for those in Makati. The ride to Shaw Boulevard station will take about 13 minutes from Ayala station and 16 minutes from Taft station. The fare is a staggering 11-13 pesos. North Avenue Station is about 22 minutes from Taft, and costs around P15.
You’ll find just about everything you want for your Manila shopping binge at these three malls, from the familiar to the downright funky. Shopping for things to bring to the folks at home? Check out Tesoro's (tel: [63-2] 844-4143) in Arnaiz Avenue for traditional Filipino handicrafts, Balikbayan Handicrafts (tel: 893-0777) also on Arnaiz Avenue for more of the same with a bit more woody flair, and Silahis (tel: 527-2113) in Intramuros for antique furniture and trinkets.
Megamall’s department store has even more offerings in terms of local goods. You’ll also find the Islands Philippines store here. For those of you who like to take home “I was there” t-shirts, these average around P400. All three malls have the usual accoutrements, and health and beauty stores like Watson’s and The Body Shop have the best selection in terms of skin care and therapy products.
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| Makati shopping: La Senza lingerie |
Greenhills, is a Manila shopping centre a five or ten-minute cab ride from any of the three malls. Various stalls selling every kind of merchandise are all housed under one roof in air-conditioned bliss giving the shopper a flea market experience minus the dust and heat. Recent years have seen an explosion in the shopping centre’s growth. What was once a mere supermarket and an odd collection of clothing stores has grown into an all-in-one shopping centre replete with cinemas and a fine selection of menus to satisfy every palate. At Greenhills you’ll find everything from exotic South Sea pearls to cheap garments, mobile phones and electronic accessories. Depending on the quality, a string of pearls will set you back about US$20-$80. The trinket stores are all side by side making for extremely competitive pricing. Prices can be obscenely low. Like any flea market, haggling is not only acceptable but expected but not in the higher end stores. Purists can head to the old quarter of Intramuros and its antique shops like Galeria Ida Antique.
Up north you’ll find TriNoMa, another massive addition to Manila’s collection of malls. It’s easily accessed by the MRT, which has an entrance that connects directly to the mall. The train ride takes about 12 minutes from the Ayala station in Makati. The mall itself is shaped like a large lopsided triangle, which makes navigating its environs a bit of a challenge. But if you’re patient enough, you’ll find everything you could possibly fancy. Kids can go to the local Toys R Us, mums can check out a few designer bags, while dads can get their fill of gadgets ranging from electronic shavers to the latest model mobile phones. Mall hours are from 10am to 9pm.
The Mall of Asia (www.smmallofasia.com) is a must-see. It’s perhaps the largest mall in Asia, and is built on a huge patch of reclaimed land, south of Roxas Boulevard by the Bay. Moving around requires a bit of legwork but there’s a competitive selection of latest-season goods from high end to middle range. Expect to find Nautica, TopMan, Osh Kosh, Barbie, Esprit, Geox, Kid's Republic, Mango, Guess, Skin Food and U2. You get the drift. The mall also has the only IMAX theatre in the country. Also expect a skating rink and occasional big-name music concerts. The best way to get to the mall is by cab. Mall hours are from 10.30am to 9pm.
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| Fort Bonifacio restaurants and shops |
That’s Manila shopping in a nutshell. What’s the catch? Well, you’ll have to brave the crowds on the weekends and you don’t even want to contemplate a visit during the Christmas holidays. This is gridlock like you’ve never experienced.
Manila dining and nightlife
Whatever your taste or pleasure, Manila dining offers something for everyone. The latest area to catch the citizens’ fancy is the newish Fort development near Fort Bonifacio, about a 10-minute drive from Makati without traffic, past the splendid San Antonio church to the broad greens, condominiums, and restaurant areas. Look for places like Red Kimono (Japanese), Hossein’s Persian Kebabs (a Manila stalwart, with a terrific upstairs outlet and a “sheesha” hubble-bubble bar near P Burgos too), Caffe Puccini (Italian), Trio Italian Bistro, Prince of Jaipur (Indian), and Pier One (seafood in a pirate shack – or ship, maybe).
At the Ayala Center in Makati, a row of restaurants span Italian to native Filipino fare. A meal for two at most of the establishments here will cost about P1,800 (US$43). At Greenbelt make time to visit Café Bola, where Filipino food is served with panache. Try its “sinigang” (boiled pork in a sour soup) and “tuyo” (dried herring) for a decidedly Filipino experience. MyLK, another Greenbelt restaurant, serves a kaleidoscope of dishes centred on the concept of comfort food. Wasabi (tel: 840-4223) on Makati Avenue close by The Peninsula is a contemporary Japanese restaurant with Californian influence. Try the white fish, crabmeat and avocado with a special sauce.
The Podium at Ortigas Center is another place to check out: a pricey part-deli restaurant, part-grocery store. The food is a mix of Mediterranean and Asian, with options such as a cold-cut platter and shrimp chilli pasta. Popular for coffee and cakes too. It’s about 30 minutes by cab from Makati. Mario's (tel: [63-2] 634-3417) is for fine dining, complete with grand piano and elegant chandeliers. Try the oysters Rockefeller with spinach hollandaise sauce and angel hair pasta with black olives. Complement your meal with a choice of wine from the fine cellar. The restaurant is located at St Francis Square in the Ortigas Center.
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| San Antonio church beckons the faithful |
Illustrado (tel: [63-2] 301-0183), housed in a rebuilt turn-of-the-century house in Intramuros, offers Spanish and traditional Filipino fare. There's an excellent menu coupled with an extensive wine list. Try their paella and “adobong usa” (venison cooked in vinegar and soy sauce). The restaurant features a separate coffee shop with freshly prepared pastries. Barbara's (tel: 527-4090) offers a Spanish-inspired setting. It’s fairly romantic and seafood is the order of the day here.
For Spanish, there's Guernica’s (tel: 521-4415), where the menu is strictly traditional. The dishes are heavy on olive oil and garlic and the restaurant's trio of musicians serenade tables. Guernica's is located at Jorge Bocobo Street in Malate.
Manila nightlife is second to none and the partying goes on into the wee hours. The Hard Rock comes to life at about 10pm. Happy hour starts at noon and ends at 7pm, making it perhaps one of the longest "hours" anywhere. Forget that siesta – get happy instead. Café Havana (tel: 757-4370) is located in both Greenbelt in Makati and Malate, and has a reputation for wild drinking and dancing. The bar hopping scene is centred mainly on two locations: Libis in Quezon City and Malate in Old Manila. A bottle of beer will set you back about P150-P300, depending on how snazzy the place is. Meanwhile Grappa's brews its own beer and offers an interesting selection of flavoured beer in addition to an excellent menu.
Should you find yourself up in north Manila of the evening, you may want to check out Seventyseven Café and Bar (tel: 7839-1982). With a homey, ’70s throwback feel, this family-run business presents relaxed alfresco dining. The cosy restaurant downstairs serves its signature chicken cacciatore and chicken marsala and has a decent selection of white and red wines.
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| Greenbelt's Cafe Havana |
Testosterone-crazed Alpha Males will head for the beer and bawdy ruckus of places like P Burgos Street and Malate, where skimpily-clad ladies coo from neon-lit doorways, urging the purchase of an overpriced drink in a noisy establishment. Girlie bars around P Burgos Street with names like Flamingo, Rogues, Dimples, and Ivory beckon, and continue to do so until 4am while touts outside offer Viagra or Cialis at P1,000 for four tablets. You’ll be offered the Viagra regardless of whether you’re 20 or 70. That’s a lot of drinking, and partying. Regular priced beer is P150 (happy hour is cheaper) though your cooing companion’s drink will be double that.
Yet Makati has a slew of terrific bars, without the come-hither cost. Conway’s (tel: 633-8888) on the second floor of the Shangri-La Makati offers an all-you-can-drink menu at P500 during happy hour (5pm to 9pm). You'll drown in hops but die happy.
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