 |
| Primo: upscale lounge |
NONE of the busy energy that hums through the crowded streets of Taipei City during the daytime is lost when the sun recedes behind the lush, rolling mountains that Taiwan is famous for. As the last ebbing rays dance on the surface of the two rivers coursing through this basin city, residents change gear and come out to play.
A full stomach is a critical part of a good night out, and in this urban setting where people from various Asian cultures and beyond collide, there is no shortage of restaurants from local to international or fusion. Thankfully, the notoriously bad traffic in Taipei is mitigated by the convenient public Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) system that usually puts people within walking distance of their destination.
Send us your Feedback / Letter to the Editor
Dumplings and drumming for Taipei dining
Visitors to Taipei City usually clamour to sample the xiao long bao – small steamed buns – at Din Tai Feng (tel: [886-2] 2321-8928, www.dintaifung.com.tw), arguably one of the most famous international restaurant franchises from Taiwan. The original restaurant started in 1958 and still stands on Xinyi Road by Yongkang Street. Din Tai Feng's storefront is impossible to miss, as there is always a steady stream of customers lined up out front. For those who simply must have a taste of Din Tai Feng's soup dumplings but don't have the patience to wait for a seat at the Xinyi location, the restaurant has four other branches in the city.
A few blocks northeast is FiFi (tel: [886-2] 2721-1970, www.isabelle-wen.com/wenfifi, 15, Sec 4, Renai Road), owned by local designer Isabelle Wen. The building is a unique combination of boutique, restaurant and bar. Patrons can easily spend an evening shopping in FiFi's Market on the first floor, head up to the second floor for Chinese cuisine, then relax with a cocktail on the balcony of W Bar on the third floor, above the din of city traffic.
 |
| Living Bar Cafe: Western fusion |
If you're interested in taking in an incredible aerial view of the city with dinner, the Taipei 101 – one of the tallest buildings in the world – has a couple high-altitude restaurants for you to choose from. This is especially convenient if you happen to miss the building's observatory hours (10am to 10pm). For Taiwanese flavour, there is Shin Yeh (tel: [886-2] 8101-0185, www.shinyeh.com.tw) on the 85th floor. To really enjoy the restaurant's array of delectable eats, it's best to go with a group of four or more as servings tend to be quite large. Also on the 85th floor is another extraordinarily large mouthful – Diamond Tony's Panorama Fusion Cuisine Dining Pub (tel: 8101-0016, www.diamond-tony.com.tw). Diamond also offers another outlet located more conveniently on the 4th floor of the shopping mall. Also among the varied choices at Taipei 101 are the Japanese restaurant Wasabi (tel: 8101-8166) with a generous seafood buffet, and the Thai Crystal Spoon (tel: 8101-8123).
It's no surprise with the large Japanese community here that the city is flush with Japanese restaurants, always a regular fixture on the Taipei dining circuit. If you're interested in some entertainment while you eat, taiko drumming performances are regularly staged at Dozo (tel: [886-2] 2778-1135, www.dozoizakaya.com, 102 Guangfu South Road), not far from the Sun Yat Sen Memorial MRT station. This spacious and modern izakaya offers an assortment of inventive cocktails as well as beer, wine and saké.
Around the corner is MOE (tel: [886-2] 2731-1750, 24 Lane 116, Guangfu South Road), a cozy do-it-yourself charcoal grill restaurant. A detailed chart on the menu helps customers pick the right ingredients for their grill. Don't be surprised if waiters step in from time to time to do the grilling for you if they deem your technique too amateurish.
Mitsui (tel: [886-2] 2595-2099, www.mitsuitaipei.com) is a high-end Japanese restaurant that gastronomes must visit. The locations on Anhe Street and Dunhua South Road are probably the most convenient, and there are other branches scattered throughout the city. Although pricier than many other Japanese restaurants, the multi-course selection of intricately prepared fresh seafood is well worth it. Do make sure to bring along a hearty appetite as Mitsui doesn't skimp on quality or quantity.
 |
| L'idiot Restaurant: inventive |
For non-Asian fare, Living Bar Café (tel: [886-2] 2546-5966, www.livingbartaiwan.com, 18-1 Ching Chen Street) off to the side of Fuxing North Road has a regularly updated menu of Western fusion cuisine. Inside the three-floor restaurant, high ceilings and a large gleaming replica of a whiskey decanter above the polished bar, help conjure up a fairly distinguished ambience. The restaurant also provides a large selection of imported red wines that can be enjoyed with a meal, or sipped outside at the pavilion.
At the amusingly named L'idiot Restaurant (tel: [886-2] 2545-6966, www.lidiotrestaurant.com, 156, Sec 3, Mingshen East Road) – chefs combine the traditional with contemporary. The venue features a colourful mosaic-tile ocean wave and twisting flame to represent the free spirit of the place and the passion that goes into the food. You decide. A happy donkey is the restaurant's mascot so customers should have no problems shedding their inhibitions.
Galerie Bistro (tel: [886-2] 2558-0096, www.galeriebistro.com, 2 Lane 25, Nanjing West Road) is a charming little establishment located right by the Zhongshan MRT Station that serves up a menu of French, Italian and American. The restaurant attracts a sophisticated crowd that delights in the savoury and sweet crêpes. Galerie Bistro is an experience in itself as the restaurant is housed in a whitewashed European-style home – where the owner grew up – dating back to 1931. The ensemble serves as a restaurant as well as an art gallery.
Bikinis and Bellinis at the best Taipei hotel bars
Of course, if you're not keen on wandering too far from your room, Taipei bars are aplenty at all top hotels. Ziga Zaga (www.taipei.grand.hyatt.com) on the second floor of the Grand Hyatt is a stylish restaurant and bar that is the ideal place to enjoy a few cocktails with good company while listening to nightly live performances. High above the city on the 38th floor of the Shangri-la Far Eastern Plaza hotel are the Marco Polo Restaurant (www.shangri-la.com/en/property/taipei/fareasternplaza) and Marco Polo Lounge. The restaurant serves up elegant Italian cuisine while the lounge is an intimate space for a nightcap with a spectacular view over the city. The Grand Formosa Regent is home to the stylish Gallery lounge bar and a range of restaurants, including azie (www.grandformosa.com.tw), which serves a fusion of Asian and Western, and Brasserie, with tables groaning under the weight of an all-you-can-eat buffet.
 |
| Shangri-La's Marco Polo lounge |
Sipping your liquor of choice at Henry's Bar (www.sherwood.com.tw/en) at the Sherwood, the deep leather furniture and warm atmosphere will transport you back to the early 1900s. Done with that stodgy wee dram? Head to the hip and trendy W Taipei for food and drinks at Woobar (www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels/), which looks out over WET, the outdoor pool on the 10th floor sky deck. Beachwear and bikinis are welcome at this unrestrained Taipei hot spot.
Bargains and bubble tea, Zhongxiao East Road, Ximending
Should you feel like mingling with the masses, take the MRT over to the Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT Station, and stroll eastward down Zhongxiao East Road. There you'll find not one, but two Sogo department stores which, despite being adjacent to each other, draw vast crowds. Neon signs illuminate the bustling street during the evenings and crowds always throng the area no matter what the state the economy is in. The real finds, however, are hidden in the back alleys just north and south of Zhongxiao where Taipei shopping comes alive. There, boutique windows and stalls are filled with apparel and trinkets imported from South Korea and Japan and, if you're in the good graces of the store owner, you may even score a surprising discount.
A popular place for weary shoppers to recharge with a sweet drink is just one street north of Zhongxiao and east of Dunhwa North Road. A row of bubble tea shops runs along here, each establishment boasting lengthy menus with everything from the traditional pearl milk tea to other fruity and floral concoctions.
Another interesting recreational area is Ximending, which was one of the earliest Taipei shopping districts. It stays busy day and night. Located in the western Wanhua District, one of the oldest areas, Ximending is a fascinating amalgam of modern and ancient. Originally set up as an entertainment district during the Japanese occupation, Ximending has morphed into brightly lit frenzy of shops and streetside vendors.
 |
| Ziga Zaga at the Grand Hyatt: stylish |
One of the most prominent reminders of the Japanese occupation is The Red House (tel: [886-2] 2311-9380, www.redhouse.org.tw), located conveniently across from Exit 6 of the Ximen MRT Station. Built in 1908 as a public market, the octagonal red brick building is now a protected historical site. Cultural and artistic events are regularly held here and visitors can often catch live theatre or music performances. On the other side of The Red House is Riverside Live House (tel: [886-2] 2370-8805, www.riverside.com.tw), host to a wide variety of talented up-and-coming musicians.
Most people snack while they shop or pop into the nearest available restaurant for a quick bite while meandering through Ximending, but if you're looking for an unusual place to eat, try Modern Toilet Restaurant (tel: [886-2] 2311-8822, www.moderntoilet.com.tw, 7 Lane 50, Xining South Road). The restaurant is a perplexing establishment that combines eating with, well, bathroom toilets. The entire space is toilet-themed. Patrons sit on fake toilets, dine off miniature lavatory bowls and drink from portable urinals – clean ones, of course. Most visit for the novelty rather than the bog-standard food. The place may be gastronomically unsatisfying but it does present some unusual backdrops for fast-clicking Facebook shutterbugs.
Taipei shopping, at night
The crowds on Zhongxiao Road and the Ximending area are nothing compared to the swarms of people who pack Taipei’s two major night markets – Shilin and Shida – where you’ll find a lot more than just cheap food stalls and trinket sellers.
Shilin night market, right by the Jiantan MRT Station, is a popular destination for tourists and locals alike. Simply walking through it is an assault on the senses. Bubble tea, candied tomatoes, or – if you dare – stinky tofu, are convenient distractions while perusing the wide variety of clothing, jewellery, toys and knick-knacks on display. Beware of the illegal hawkers who line the middle of the street. If a police officer is making the rounds this “mobile” section of the market scatters at great speed. Make sure you are not in the path of this instant diaspora. Meanwhile, the Jungle World area of the night market is a strange mash-up of more clothing stores, arcade games, fortune-tellers and pet stores displaying adorable puppies, kittens and sometimes even pot-bellied pigs for sale.
 |
| Clubby Henry's Bar at Sherwood hotel |
The Shida night market, closest to Exit 3 of the Taipower MRT Station, is arguably the trendier of the two evening shopping haunts. Clothing stores carry more contemporary and fashionable garb. There is a lot to see and, if you're lucky, you may even meet the very plump and sociable pet duck that belongs to one of the food vendors near the 7-Eleven store.
Hidden among all of this, mostly catering to the students who study at the nearby university, are lively bars and pubs. The 45 Pub (tel: [886-2] 2321-2140, 45 Heping East Road), is popular among expats. It is a comfortable place for a beer break and some alternative music spun by DJs. Without any obvious signs and located on the second floor, 45 Pub can be hard to find, so remember to keep looking up for telltale signs. Another excellent watering hole is Underworld (tel: [886-2] 2369-0103, B1, 45, Shida Road), located right in the middle of the Taipei night market action. Colourful murals on the walls and the chatter of friendly regulars creates a vibrant atmosphere.
And what of the infamous Combat Zone?
The infamous Combat Zone, a web of darkened alleys once filled to the brim with seedy hostess clubs and girlie bars, is within walking distance of the Minquan MRT Station. This is where US Marines back from a tour of duty in Vietnam splashed out on colourful, if dubious, R&R. However, since prostitution was outlawed nationwide in 1991, the Combat Zone soon lost its lascivious lustre and is now just an echo of its former self.
With none of the raunchy scenes that drew in the crowds during the 1970s and 1980s, the local government has attempted to boost flagging tourist interest by rebranding the region as “Taipei's Soho.” Visitors may be disappointed if making comparisons to London’s vibrant Soho. Still, you can stop by for a drink in one of the bars and ask the bartenders or older patrons to spin a few yarns. Check out the British pub and restaurant My Place (tel: [886-2] 2591-4269, 3-1 Lane 32, Shuang Cheng Street), which has been around since 1975. The Farmhouse (tel: 2595-1764, www.fhpub.com.tw, 5 Lane 32, Shuang Cheng Street), right next door, has been rowdy local venue for live music performances since 1982. If it's paid company for the night you're seeking, that may require some very cautious negotiation.
Hip and happening Anhe Road
 |
| Retro and bright Primo |
Anhe Road is the place to go for a Taipei bar scene that is more in vogue and attracts a dressy clientele. Lounges like Champagne Bar (tel: [886-2] 2755-7976, 75 Sec 1, Anhe Road) pull in the young and old alike. Nearby is Carnegie's (tel: 2325-4433, www.carnegies.com.tw, 100 Sec 2, Anhe Road), a bar and restaurant often frequented by expats. Parties and events are common and, when the atmosphere gets really gets rowdy, it isn't uncommon for the more audacious to simply jump on the bar to dance. The Bed (tel: [886-2] 2733-2560, 9 Lane 171, Sec 2, Anhe Road) is an intimate hookah bar and restaurant filled with the plush sofas and the heady aroma of fruity smoke wafting out of shisha pipes.
For a more smoky environment with a stronger tobacco kick, head over to Cigar Gallery (tel: [886-2] 2505-6808, www.formoscc.com, 204 Fuxing North Road). This place offers an array of cigars ranging from extremely affordable for beginners to pricey brands for the more experienced and fat of wallet.
Sports fans needn't worry about finding a place to catch the game. The Tavern (tel: [886-2] 8780-0892, www.tavern.com.tw, 415, Sec 4, Xinyi Road) is a popular sports bar that is packed with flat-screen televisions. Multiple screens placed by tables and lining the ceiling over the bar ensure none of the action is missed. The Brass Monkey (tel: [886-2] 2547-5050, www.brassmonkeytaipei.com, 166 Fuxing North Road) is another option for avid sports fans. Both these Taipei bars post the schedules for the events they will be broadcasting.
Downtown clubbing near City Hall
One of the first places most people think of for a fun night out in Taipei is the downtown area near City Hall. Within the span of a few city blocks are food, shopping and a lively clubbing scene that usually doesn't peter out until the wee hours. However, if you're looking for a place to party that is smoke-free, that will be a nigh impossible task as most clubs ignore the indoor smoking ban – especially during the weekends when you can expect a mad crush of people at the most popular venues.
 |
| Marquee: chic cocktails |
To start the evening off, sample the cocktails at Marquee (tel: [886-2] 2729-5409, www.marquee-taipei.com, 16-1, Sec 5, Xinyi Road), a spacious and chic restaurant lounge popular among socialites and celebrities. The lounge, which serves Western cuisine during the dinner hour, gives customers a sense of luxury with its dark interior and glowing purple hues. BarCode (tel: 2725-2520, www.bar-code.com.tw, 22 Songshou Road) is another stylish lounge located a few blocks to the north on the second floor of the Neo19 building. BarCode occupies a corner of the building, which is used to full advantage with sweeping floor-to-ceiling windows. Two bars at opposite ends of the room ensure patrons never go too long without a drink. On the first floor of the same block is InHouse (tel: 2345-5549, www.inhouse19.com, 90 Songren Road), a restaurant lounge that has a relaxed feel to it with plenty of room to walk around. InHouse also has pleasant outdoor seating in an area enclosed by tall hedges, which help make the venue a tad more private.
Across the street at Brown Sugar (tel: [886-2] 8780-1110, www.brownsugarlive.com, behind 10 Songren Road) music enthusiasts will find live jazz performances every night. The atmosphere is always lively and crowds usually have no qualms about leaving their seats to show off a few moves on the dance floor.
Weekends, as evening slips into night, street corners are suddenly lined with dapper men and gussied up women queuing for entry into the hottest dance clubs. Although there are many different venues to choose from, pop, hip-hop and R&B are pretty ubiquitous at Taipei nightclubs. Patrons will have few options in terms of dance music, but there is a wide range of venues. Room 18 (tel: [886-2] 2345-2778, www.room18.com.tw, B1, 88 Songren Road) and Lava (tel: 8780-3867, www.lava-club.com.tw, 22 Songshou Road) both cater to a younger crowd and blast music with heavy bass beats to get the pulse pumping.
Nearby, in the basement of the Taipei 101 building is Spark (tel: [886-2] 8101-8662, www.spark101.com.tw, B1, 45, Shi-fu Road), another wildly popular Taipei nightclub where VIP tables surround a central bar, and dancers pressed shoulder to shoulder are illuminated by a glowing ceiling overhead and a fully lit dance floor beneath their feet.
 |
| Brown Sugar has live jazz |
A few blocks to the north, Primo (tel: [886-2] 2760-5885, www.clubprimo.com, 2F, 297 Sec 5, Zhongxiao East Road), is an establishment that defines itself as an upscale lounge and club. Consisting of two floors decked out in sleek retro furniture, Primo also offers private VIP rooms, which are a real draw for the many celebrities who frequent the club. Elsewhere, coloured light filters through translucent spheres and plays on the sofas.
Most people might think beer and a musty pub environment when they think of bowling or snooker, but these two lowbrow pastimes are an exceedingly stylish affair at Strike (tel: [886] 0922-087-877, www.strike.tw, B1, 563 Sec 4, Zhongxiao East Road). The concept club puts a little glamour into bowling by combining bowling alleys and pool tables with glamorous dance floors. The atmosphere at Strike switches effortlessly between relaxed lounge and raucous club depending on the night.
Close by is Luxy (tel: [886-2] 2772-1000, www.luxy-taipei.com, 201 Sec 4, Zhongxiao East Road), a place with deep bass beats so loud your chest will vibrate. Who needs a pacemaker? Luxy is an enormous space with three separate sections capable of accommodating up to a total of 2,000 people. It is essentially a hot spot for hip-hop crowd, and it isn't uncommon to see a lot of scantily clad damsels showing off their figures on the dance floor. Host to a lot of performances by the most popular DJs and musicians, Luxy has held parties featuring artists such as Ja Rule, Flo Rida, and Eve. Make a note of this popular Taipei dance club.
Now if you're wondering how you'll stagger home after your Taipei nightlife binge, especially after the MRT system shuts down at midnight, don't worry. There is no shortage of taxis and cab drivers are usually hovering right outside the most popular clubs. Getting a ride should be a cinch – just make sure you remember your address.
Send us your Feedback / Letter to the Editor
|
