CRAZY SALES

Fun Hong Kong shopping guide to street buys and flea markets

Once sated with luxury names, find the real Hong Kong in its alleys for the best nighttime sales and flea markets. From swish local designer brands to bargains in grungy buildings. Records, shoes and factory outlets to tattoos and tailors.

written and photographed by Vijay Verghese

July 2024

SEE ALSO Hong Kong fun guide | Hong Kong business hotels | HK Yuen Long coffee, cafes | HK Haven Street fun guide | HK museum tour | Shanghai shopping guide | Kuala Lumpur shopping guide | Bangkok shopping guide | Singapore shopping guide | Macau guide| Tokyo | Songdo fun guide | Airport duty-free shopping

Joyce at Tiguar used to be part of a Taiwanese girl band that belted out hits to screaming fans. She moved to Hong Kong and now runs her chic store at Island Beverley for the slightly older set./ photos: Vijay Verghese

JUMP TO Causeway Bay | Wanchai and Admiralty | Central | TST, Granville, Mongkok | Sham Shui Po | Kam Tin, Flea Market | Factory outlets

WHEN I first arrived in Hong Kong late 1984 to puzzle over McDonald’s staff shouting, “Mepchu” (may-I-help-you), tourists everywhere were being thrown out of camera shops. This sort of bum’s rush was the stuff of legend and dominated the conversation at sozzled soirees. Today, shoppers holding aloft “I was ripped off here” placards are largely a thing of the past. Yet, caution and common sense are always advised in any Hong Kong shopping guide.

Long known as a shopping mecca, Hong Kong lost much of its glitzy cachet following the pandemic lockdown but the city is fighting back. The TST tourist heartland bait-and-switch scams have died down with the drop in big spenders and in part due to the Consumer Council’s (tel: [852] 2929-2222, www.consumer.org.hk/en) almost heroic efforts to bring order to the Hong Kong shopping madness.

The council blacklists the worst offenders and polices a broad range of complaints from food and entertainment to education and pets. There were over 15,000 complaints from January to May 2024. These will have included the collective ire of football fans after Lionel Messi turned out to be a no-show at a heavily promoted and astronomically priced friendly between Hong Kong and Inter Miami.

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Why 'most' roads lead to Causeway Bay

Hong Kong Island’s Causeway Bay has long been a magnet for Hong Kong shoppers and its epicentre is the SOGO (www.sogo.com.hk/en) crossing on Hennessy Road where, as in the Ginza, neon, cars and pedestrians converge to give the place its unique windmilling buzz. While many shoppers are moving to TST, Sham Shui Po and Mongkok for cool street markets and oddities, Causeway Bay still gets a good slice of the pie. The multistorey SOGO department store has all the usual stuff you’d expect and brands by the bushel as well an excellent food hall at the B2 level. This is a genuine HK one-stop-shop. The MTR has three exits right here (try D3). If you can pull yourself away from eyeballing the humungous Balenciaga ‘Bouncer’ chunky-sole sneakers the size of watermelons (from HK$6,500), step outside to explore this lively neighbourhood.

Haiphong Road neon TST (far left, stock photo); Pink-haired mum shows the ropes to bored youngster at Causeway Bay (centre) as SOGO crowds throng the street at the Ginza-like intersection on Hennessy Road/ photos: Vijay Verghese

Right across the side street are Laforet (www.laforet.hk/) and the corner Island Beverley (Exit E), long a haven for trendy local designers showcasing everything from shoes to everyday garments and dresses until overtaken by cheaper Chinese and South Korean fashion imports. Laforet is bright and cheerful and spread out. Find costume jewellery, cheap women’s tops from HK$129, frilly dresses, art shops, and even a carpet store.

The four-storey warren of Island Beverley has been revamped with yellow pipe lighting and a somewhat dull uniform look. The first shop you’ll encounter coming up the Island Beverley escalator to your right is the bright and well-presented Tiguar (www.facebook.com), the name is derived by “combining Tiger and Jaguar,” as elegant host Joyce Huang animatedly explains.

A former member of fresh-faced Taiwanese Mando-pop girl band ZERO+ Joyce moved to Hong Kong around 2012 and developed a passion for Korean fashion. She sources most of her outfits from Seoul’s Dong Dae Mun wholesale market with an eye for elegant jackets and dresses that might catch the eye of a fortysomething tai-tai. Smart jackets, elegantly buttoned or rough-hewn, start from around HK$700. The clothes may not be for the younger set but if Joyce is around, her broad welcoming smile and story are the main appeal. Hard to believe but she started out as a medical assistant doing body checks and health evaluations. Whenever away her assistant Caffeine sits in.

On the second floor, Puzzle King (Shop 226, www.puzzleking.com.hk) does exactly as it states, cramming in every imaginable jigsaw puzzle into its tiny space. There are over 4,000 items packed into these groaning shelves, according to owner Nicole Tse. Bring your own photo and have it turned into a 48-piece puzzle for HK$178 or go whole hog with 2,000 pieces for HK$1,800. It takes around 10 days, Tse says. Else pick up a readymade 1,000-piece set with frame for $698. Puzzle Queen Nicole took over this 20-year-old store from its original owner last year. The kids and mums keep coming.

Shop 210 around the corner is the intriguing Macrame (macrame91.com ) with its rustic appeal. Loose full length dresses (from HK$699) and accessories sourced from India offer village chic for free-wheeling customers with a hippie heart. The shop has outlets all across Hong Kong. On other floors at Island Beverley shoes start at HK$299 for a pair of canvas sneakers to $499 for a more elegant ladies shoe. Find baby tops for $50. It’s a mixed bag here. As you exit from the UG level you’ll spot another tiny store called Purple that has been around an impressive 20 years. Find made-in-Hong Kong sneakers, some with bling, starting at HK$399 with some items going even lower.

Puzzle King at Island Beverley (far right) has been selling jigsaw delights for 20 years and is now with new owner Nicole Tse; Macramae at Beverley (far left) sells ethnic Indian dresses and accessories; Laforet (centre is a bright bargain price mini-mall option/ photos: Vijay Verghese

A few paces towards the harbour, passing local mid-priced clothing store G2000 (www.g2000.com.hk), is the revitalised 14-storey food-and-shopping World Trade Centre and its wwwtc mall (www.wwwtc.hk). Spot brands like Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, COACH, Gucci, Longchamp and Moncler. An underground passage leads from the car park to the Noonday Gun, which is still fired at noon each day thanks to Jardine Matheson, one of the city’s early ‘hongs’ (business intermediaries).

Around the corner from Island Beverley on Great George Street at Shop 283 Causeway Place (www.causewayplace.hk/tc) is Two Girls (www.twogirls.hk), a long running local cosmetics brand since 1898. It was created to bring the luxuries of beauty care to Hong Kong people at affordable prices. It is a philosophy that appears to have worked. Popular among its range of retro packaged items in a tiny store is Florida Water, a catch-all elixir that claims to kill germs, prevent heatstroke, and can even be used to freshen the bath water. Or you might “add few drops to hot towel to apply on face after drunk”. A 200ml bottle of Florida Water is priced at just HK$55 and you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing you own something confoundingly original. Also discover oddities like Living Rose Face Cream and Grapefruit Lip Balm.

Downstairs at street level is another fast developing store from Hong Kong super brand Casetify. Casetify Studio (www.casetify.cn, 2-10 Great George Street) features rugged but stylish phone cases that follow movie and art trends or artists. Pick from a huge and colourful selection and they will print a case for your specific phone, Android or iPhone. Co-founders Ronald Yeung and Wesley Ng launched the company in 2011 with a simple plan to convert “Instagram photos into custom phone cases”. It has developed into a lively global lifestyle brand. Expect an average price of about HK$500.

Then turning left on Paterson Street you’ll pass the shrill yellow entreaties of the 24-hour Pearl City Don Don Donki (www.dondondonki.com/hk ), the Japanese cut-price store with everything from cosmetics to toys and snacks that has taken over the three-floor space once occupied by HMV. It has several other outlets too. Turning right on Kingston Street with Food Street (on the left) you’ll come across popular Japanese shoe store Onitsuka Tiger (www.onitsukatiger.com.hk) with its nylon fabric canvas shoe designs in bright colours and the eye-popping Francfranc (hk.francfranc.net) home accessories store.

Vintage local beauty care store Two Girls has been at Causeway Place for a while with its hot selling Florida Water (far left); Casetify downstairs does funky phone covers; Onitsuka Tiger sneaker; and the revamped Windsor House that houses a MUJI and some fun kids' stuff/ photos: Vijay Verghese

On Cleveland Street to the left is an Okura (www.okurastore.com) concept store with cool Japanese street wear and funky designs. Some second-hand jeans and tee-shirts too with a retro vintage feel. Branded faded denims from HK$3,380 and tees from $980. Arty women’s tops from $1,280.

Then a right, skirting Victoria Park, and right again on Great George Street to complete the square to bring you to IKEA as well as Windsor House (www.windsorhouse.hk/) with its new Muji in the basement, SASA cosmetics, eats, and second floor kids’ stuff like Dr Kong shoes and Book Buddy. A long serving Toys R Us is on the seventh floor.

Back at SOGO cross Hennessy Road to head south on Jardine’s Crescent (MTR Exit F1) catching the alleyway market with its clothes and gewgaws on the left as the pedestrian street curves right past the vertical garden of innisfree (hk.innisfree.com), the popular South Korean cosmetics and skin care brand, to the beckoning Apple Store at Hysan Place mall. Hysan marks the beginning of the Lee Gardens Great Mall Wall that circumscribes the area with six separate Lee Gardens (www.leegardens.com.hk/). Upscale brand shopping galore from Louis Vuitton (Lee Garden One) to shockingly decadent Baby Dior (Lee Garden Two).

The hushed and well-stocked eslite bookstore (www.eslitecorp.com) from Taiwan occupies floors 8-10 at Hysan Place, connected by escalators with the English section at the top. Unlike the chain’s 24-hour stores in Taipei, the Hysan Place mega-bookstore is open 10am-10pm. Bookworms note, a food court is on the 11th floor.

Cross Percival Street to pass a large and always packed UNIQLO affordable clothes store at Lee Theatre to reach the large video wall of Times Square (timessquare.com.hk) for Anteprima wire bags and eclectic brands from adidas and Aape to Bose, Brooks Brothers, Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Columbia, Timberland, Ferragamo, Sulwhasoo, Zara, Parsons Music and Samsonite.

Just south of Lee Garden country across Leighton Road and bounded by Caroline Hill Road and the foodie Haven Street are a few rather unusual Hong Kong shopping gems, locally run but mysteriously Japanese. This time we’re talking biker grunge and old-fashioned rough-hewn gentleman’s cuts at Roadmentic (13A Haven Street, indoor alley, Lei Ha Court,  www.facebook.com). Romantic + road. Get it? You’ll spot it by the Vespas and imposing rusty bikes parked outside. It is run by the professorial Mr Fat who tames his long wild hair to squint through Lennon glasses as he assembles his latest masterpiece. Slide in past the heavy iron door into a small room littered with motorbike helmets (about HK$4,000) and tough-guy leather jackets. Pick up denims and biking paraphernalia for your next Harley jaunt.

The Haven street area will delight tough guys with biker-wear Roadmentic (far left, with Mr Fat); Luddite (centre; Evergreen Times Square (right)/ photos: Vijay Verghese

Also in the Japanese road warrior image (or ’60s Americana), is the adjacent Luddite (15A-17A Haven Street, www.facebook.com/). Its work shed interior is packed to the gills with boots, leather jackets, denims, hats, satchel bags, overalls, oversize-pocket cargo pants, and all manner of trivia. A smiling Boris, the most un-Boris person you will ever meet, is a genial designer whose brainchild this is. Both Luddite and Roadmentic are open from about 1pm to 9pm but hours tend to be whimsical. If all this is not man enough for you, roll up your sleeves and pop into the neighbouring Friday's Tattoo (www.fridaystattoohk.com).

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Wanchai grunge and Admiralty chic

Our HK shopping guide leads on to the gentrifying Wanchai neighbourhood that occupies a prime stretch of land between Admiralty and Central to the west and Causeway Bay to the east. The drunks and touts have largely moved out to be replaced by a hip young crowd more interested in bar browses than beer brawls. This is the area for street deals and bargain shopping on Hong Kong Island. The best sales are to be found in the cross streets connecting Queen’s Road East and Johnston Road’s ding-ding trams.

Scout Wanchai Market and its maze of street stalls up to Spring Garden Lane and the touristy upscale Lee Tung Avenue (MTR Exit D).

Along Johnston Road are discount stores for shoes, sneakers, and clothes with pop-up stores getting rid of surplus stuff. Look out for the long running Maple (www.maplefashion.com), which has several outlets around town with attractive prices.

Techies can burrow into the rabbit warren of Wanchai Computer Centre (130 Hennessy Road, Wanchai MTR Exit A4, ) for phone stuff, Apple Mac fixes, printers, WiFi systems, software and all manner of cables. It is a pretty legit place. The original and more squeezed and musty computer hovel is at 298 Hennessy. This multi-storey space offers modestly lower prices.

In North Wanchai, adjoining the Grand Hyatt hotel at the HK Convention and Exhibition Centre (Exhibition Centre MTR station East Rail Line), is the delightful Hong Kong showcase the HKTDC Design Centre (hkdesigngallery.hktdc.com). Items are constantly changing as new ideas and inspired products stream in ranging from cooking appliances, electronics and phone accessories to costume jewellery, clothes and assorted Hong Kong memorabilia for gifts. If you’re visiting for a conference or are at a nearby hotel, this store is worth a visit.

Wanchai's street markets (left and centre left) are always popular; less known is the secondhand record collection in the basement of the Emperor Centre on Hennessy (centre right); Tram trundles past iconic 'flatiron' building on Johnston Road/ photos: Vijay Verghese

Back in the heart of Wanchai, the basement of the Emperor Group Centre (288 Hennessy Road) serves up a fun HK$12 discount store by Daiso Japan (more outlets around town, www.aeonstores.com.hk) and a musty but entertaining second hand vinyl record store (tel: 2574-3773) run by the reclusive Sam packed with classics and hits from the ‘60s and ‘70s.

A stone’s throw from here at Tai Yau Plaza (junction Johnstone and Flemming) is old-timer Rock Gallery (Shop 202, taiyauplaza.com), a record, CD, DVD and Blu-Ray haven. And for real musicians in search of guitars, drums and pianos, there’s always the three-floor Tom Lee (www.tomleemusic.com.hk/en) at 144 Gloucester Road. Tom Lee is also at 1-9 Cameron Lane in Tsim Sha Tsui (MTR Exit B2) and at 521 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay.

Heading down Queen’s Road East towards Admiralty just before Pacific Place Three up a small flight of stairs is the Star Street precinct with cool hangouts and a seminal Kapok concept store (ka-pok.com) with caps, blouses, tees, and party gifts. Find an eclectic collection at Kapok, which has stores all over town from Pacific Place to K11 Musea. If bespoke tailoring is your thing, drop by The Block (www.theblock.hk) on Francis street where you may spot tapered jackets (HK$4,999) and crisply creased trousers (HK$2,999).

An underground walkway takes wanderers and commuters from Pacific Place Three to Pacific Place Admiralty (www.pacificplace.com.hk) and the MTR Station (Exit F). Pacific Place is one of the original stylish Swire offerings for Hong Kong shoppers with a mix of high-end brands, popular names on the lower floors, eats and a movie theatre. Think Harvey Nichols, GigaSports, lululemon, the quirky drivepro (L2 Shop 212), Muji, Shanghai Tang, Balmain Paris, Brooks Brothers, BVLGARI, Celine, Chanel, Hermes, Jo Malone, LV, Tumi, Lane Crawford, PYE (off the rack or bespoke tailoring, Shop 111), ZARA and a friendly Kelly & Walsh bookstore (in a new location at  L2, Shop 216). The wallet-devouring Vilebrequin swimwear eye-candy lives on at Shop 140 (HK$2,900 for boxer swimmers) though, sadly, stylish British duo Ted Baker and Thomas Pink have gone.

Stroll past the IWC Schaffhausen watch store to marvel at a long-surviving King & Country (Shop 245, Level 2, www.kingandcountry.com) with miniature replica soldiers and war recreations through the ages. This expensive shop is always popular with kids though fathers seem even more fascinated. South Korean beauty cosmetics and face masks are aplenty in the Queensway Plaza strip mall that links Admiralty to Central’s new futuristic rocket ship, the Zaha Hadid designed The Henderson.

The HKTDC Design Gallery at the convention centre (left) is an easy browse for conference-goers; ZARA at Pacific Place is a regular meeting point for all (centre); King & Country (right) at Pacific Place has miniature replicas of armies and kings through the ages/ photos: Vijay Verghese

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Where to browse in Central and SOHO

The Landmark (Central Station Exit G, www.landmark.hk) is to this business district what SOGO is to Causeway Bay. It is a prime easy-to-spot meeting ground for downtown link-ups. The ground floor water-fountain atrium lobby does seasonal pop-up showcases and features a vast DIOR (couture) along with a TOD’s (for women), Fendi, Celine, Bottega Veneta, Patek Philippe watches, a Jimmy Choo shoes at one corner, De Beers diamonds and  jewellery at another, and a Loewe and large Louis Vuitton at the Pedder Street entrance. Not a lot of people wander into these magnificent stores but they linger on for their marketing brand value and much care is taken over regular over-the-top redesigns. The Landmark mall has everything from Cartier to Casetify (for fancy and sturdy HK-designed phone covers). It is a useful spot to meet in, and walk out of speedily, thus saving your change for fun stuff in the area.

Elegant and stylish but much more fun is the historic Pedder Building just across the street. Most prestige art galleries have moved out with the higher rentals but the fifth floor features a curated Pedder Arcade (www.thepedderarcade.com) with pop-up collections and offerings like menswear at The Armoury, wireless home audio speakers from the British KEF brand, more classic British outfits from Drake’s and the vintage Nigel Cabourn.

Linked by snaking aerial walkways the Landmark conurbation serves up varied options at Prince’s Building (Chanel, Hermes, Ralph Lauren and linked to the Mandarin Oriental hotel), and Chater House (Armani concepts and BVLGARI).

The walkway extends to the Central Star Ferry pier and the twin International Finance Centre IFC towers with their vast IFC Mall (ifc.com.hk/en/mall/shopping). Expect brands by the bushel from American Vintage and Apple’s huge store to Daks, Dior, Dunhill, Furla and La Prairie. Browse Kiehl’s (the 1851 New York apothecary that branched out into skin care formulations), Leica cameras, the upscale Lane Crawford, or Valentino. Movies and eats too with a connection to the Four Seasons hotel.

PMQ (far left two) offers breezy spaces and a torrent of local designer output along its open courtyard corridors; Central Market (centre0 is arty with high ceilings and painted pipes; LV is easy to recognise (right) at the Landmark in Central/ photos: Vijay Verghese

Back to the Landmark, passing the big Marks & Spencer (ground floor Central Tower), Queen’s Road Central leads on towards Sheung Wan passing the lively hillside alleys like Pottinger and Peel Street with their colourful wares and stone steps in the upper reaches. This is the quintessential Hong Kong of the early guide books.

If you walk up you’ll hit Hollywood Road with its antiques and vintage wares as well as the atmospheric and proudly revamped Tai Kwun cultural centre (the old Central Police Station, www.taikwun.hk). Check out the Taschen art book store with its glossy coffee table productions and Touch Ceramics.

Back on Queen’s Road Central still walking west, to your right and leading to Des Voeux Road and its trams are two smaller street market alleys — Li Yuen Street East and West with the usual bric-a-brac, kids’ clothes, garments, and Chinese decorations and lucky charms. Look out for the eye-catching wall murals and street art that find greater expression in the colourful Sai Ying Pun alleyways a little farther on.

You’ll walk past the affordable and playful lifestyle fashion store Cotton On (cottonon.com/HK, baggy denims, stretchy tops, swimwear and tees). Then, just before Peel Street, on your right — a 10-minute stroll from the Landmark — is the remodelled cream Moderne-style Central Market (www.centralmarket.hk) where the Mid-Levels escalator commences its giddy climb up the hill. This is a convenient way to head up and down the hill. The escalator runs downhill 6am to10am and then uphill 10am to midnight. The market’s roots stretch back to 1842 with the current building dating to 1939. Within its stark high-ceiling interiors (with artsy unconcealed over-painted pipes) find local designers, green products, coffee, confectionary and cafes.

The popular local young entrepreneur-designer showcase PMQ (www.pmq.org.hk) is a short bracing climb up Aberdeen Street to Hollywood or Staunton. Zigzag up from Central Market to soak in the flavour. This former Police Married Quarters is a slice of Hong Kong heritage dating back to 1862 when it started as a school — which counts amongst its distinguished former pupils, Dr Sun Yat-sen.

PMQ was revamped by the government in 2009. Prowl the open interior courtyard corridors of the two seven-storey blocks to check out places like Absolute Vintage Eyewear, Alternative Country (leather goods), GOC Studio (design services), Harrison Wong (leather shoes and bags), Muse Garden (art), Shoe Artistry (bespoke shoes), Tamiya Playmodel Factory (premium gifts), and X’taste Republic (fashion). Pop-up stores provide a lively counterpoint at PMQ. This is one of the best spots in our guide to local designer Hong Kong shopping.

Sheung Wan’s historic red-brick Western Market (www.facebook.com) on Des Voeux Central has never quite achieved lift-off despite many attempts at revitalising the place. Its official website demonstrates the dearth of imagination. Nevertheless it may be worth a walk through enroute to or from the Macau ferry at Shun Tak Centre, which is close by.

Central District painted wall alley (left) offers a stunning backdrop for a sole wanderer; Blonde designer at PMQ (centre) talks things over with a partner; Peel Street and Pottinger Street offer a wonderful amble up stone steps to Hollywood Road/ photos: Vijay Verghese

And if you’re shopping for holistic local therapies for aches and ailments, Sai Ying Pun’s Yan Chai Hospital (36A Western Street, www.yanchai.org.hk) has a Chinese medicine clinic with acupuncture and a well-stocked Chinese medicine and herbal treatments dispensary.

For a weekend jaunt with a more touristy flavour there’s always the old favourite, Stanley Market, deep in the south of Hong Kong Island and best reached by bus from Central. From the Exchange Square depot or enroute try buses 6, 6A, 6X, 66 and 260.

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TST, Granville steals, Mongkok night markets

Over on Kowloon, pop out of the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR (Exit H) at iSQUARE (www.isquare.hk, Chow Tai Fook jewellers, Himalaya Cashmere, Parsons Music and various mid-range brands) and head west to Canton Road’s megastores passing Silvercord (www.silvercord.hk) or perhaps enjoying the colonial cadence of 1881 Heritage (www.1881heritage.com) along the way. The 1881 Heritage area (a former Marine Police headquarter) has lost most of its original luxury shopping brands and is now focused more on its heritage hotel and dining. It is atmospheric nonetheless and attracts selfie-seekers. Nathan Road to Canton Road is about 12 minutes on foot via Peking Road.

Harbour City and Ocean Terminal (www.harbourcity.com.hk) along Canton Road with the cruise terminal jutting out next to the Kowloon TST Star Ferry pier, are a riot of HK brand shopping options with quality restaurants and stunning harbour views of Hong Kong Island from alfresco viewing decks that are a magnet for Instagrammers seeking magic-hour twilight and sunset shots. This complex hosts everything from A Bathing Ape and Alexander McQueen to Baby Dior, Bally, COACH, Diesel, Emporio Armani, GigaSports, Celine, LV, Mikimoto, Nike, Panerai watches and a long surviving Toys R Us where pandemonium reigns. You name it they have it. The five-storey DFS (www.dfs.com) duty-free shopping centre on Canton Road is right here too.

On the eastern side of Nathan road are the K11 Art Mall (hk.k11.com, 18 Hanoi Road, TST MTR Exit D2) aimed at the younger set. And across Salisbury Road to the south (and connected by an underground walkway) is the larger harbourfront K11 Musea (www.k11musea.com) positioned as an art and culture hub with vertical gardens, fine dining, and a mix of stores from Burberry and Cartier to Loewe, lululemon and a Legoland Discovery Centre.

Back on Kowloon’s central north-south artery of Nathan Road with its blinking neon and watch and cosmetics stores, walk through the higgledy-piggledy streets up to Granville Road where the fun shopping begins. This is the hunting ground for bargains and cheerful designs none better than at the reconstructing Granville Circuit. (The One shopping mall is on Granville and Mira Place is a block north for reference.) Granville Circuit is closer to Chatham Road (after the hideaway graffiti alley with a side entrance to Cotton On at Lising Court and the busy cut-price shopping Maple). It inscribes a lazy semicircle passing the utterly derelict Rise Shopping Mall that houses all manner of funky local boutiques and small stores, many selling Korean fashions at bargain prices.

Tung Choi ladies market Mongkok (far left); Star Ferry pulls into TST pier next to Ocean Terminal and Harbour Centre; Temple Street night market gets ready for action (centre right); Couple pose for a selfie atop the Ocean Terminal viewing podium/ photos: Vijay Verghese

At Rise, up the stairs at Shop 423 find the feisty Green Bitch (www.greenbitch.store) eco-friendly store selling soaps, (HK$38-$80) aromatics, lotions, tees, and ‘Save the Lion’ socks ($150). Despite its name and seeming attitude, this is a tiny friendly place. On the amble down, stop by Synonyms (Shop 310, www.facebook.com/Synonyms) the menswear shop that does bespoke tailoring from classic to borderline tacky. Pick up a flash jacket at $1,790 or a suit for $2,480. Choose your cloth. It takes two weeks with one fitting. The owner is laid back and friendly. Check out the stylish Crazy Fashion (Shop 407, www.crazyfashion.com.hk/) where a locally designed shirt starts at HK$398 and a blazer from $1,188. There is a store in Causeway Bay too. At other dinky shops Korean-made dresses and women’s tops range from $300-$600. Find fortune tellers too. Shops open late here so it’s safer to pop by after 2pm and on weekends, after 4pm.

Heading north up Nathan, Jordan Road has its well-known but now somewhat tepid Temple Street night market that has seen mixed fortunes with the addition of a few unimaginative food carts though the surrounding area is packed to the gills with excellent eats. Use the Jordan MTR Exit A, for the Yue Hwa Chinese Products Emporium (an overpriced tourist trap). Zigzag past Temple Street and Shanghai Street to Reclamation Street (with its busy markets) that runs up in two sections to Yau Ma Tei. The older tin-roofed market section is opposite the Yau Ma Tei Theatre just before Shek Lung Street.

This brings you to the original Kowloon shopping heartland where tourists still flock to scout for deals on shoes and clothes and babywear all the way from Yau Ma Tei to Mongkok. The Langham Place shopping mall (www.langhamplace.com.hk) linked to the Cordis hotel and bounded by Argyle, Portland, and Shantung Streets is where the action starts. The mall houses a cinema, restaurants and brands like Anna Sui, Armani Beauty, Bobbi Brown, Calvin Klein, Chloe. Muji, Log-On, and Dr Martens.

The sports shoe stores start sprouting as you catch Fa Yuen Street (Mongkok MTR Exits B2, D3, E2). This was long the undisputed shoe shopping stretch in Hong Kong though shops sporting a range of labels have now spread all over the district. Wander Sai Yueng Street South to explore street stalls, food and more.

Chamonix Alpine Equipment (www.chamonix.com.hk 2F Pakpolee Commercial Centre, No. 1A Sai Yeung Choi Street South) is an excellent hiking and outdoorsman store with all imaginable camping and mountaineering gear from tents to sturdy titanium walking sticks and rugged grippy shoes for rock faces. Trail running shoes hover around HK$1,400 and tents range from HK$800-$4,000).

Bright sparks in the dark and derelict Rise Shopping Mall on Granville Circuit with socks from Green Bitch, shoes from Crazy Fashion (far left) and bespoke tailoring at Synonyms (far right); Lady steps out in the hot summer sun on Fuk Wa Street, Sham Shui Po/ photos: Vijay Verghese

Adding to the bustle is the somewhat becalmed ladies market (though the wares on display are quite varied these days) along the north-south Tung Choi Street, which runs parallel to Fa Yeun and is closer to the MTR. Both these shopping streets lie east of Mongkok station and are split into two sections by Argyle Road that cuts through them. Bear in mind that while Tung Choi stores open at various hours the street gets more characterful and interesting late evenings. Browse clothes, handbags, scarves, toys, costume jewellery, travel bags, suitcases, and cheap fashion accessories.

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Sham Shui Po deals in Bruce Lee Country

For a fun Hong Kong street shopping binge and back-alley bargains there's no better place than Sham Shui Po, a favourite with overseas visitors as well as shopper-mad locals prowling on weekends. Take the MTR to Sham Shui Po station on the Tsuen Wan line. Exit either at D2 which brings you right to the nostalgic Golden Computer Arcade and its warren of electronic gadgets. From Golden Computer arcade and its sister buildings, all crammed with computer junk that will give nerds secret orgasms, head down Fuk Wa Street for more street market bustle, clothes, kids' stuff and more.

Or exit at A2 that disgorges shoppers at Apliu Street, once renowned for its ladies of the night and now a huge street market for everything from electronics to garments. Walk through Apliu Street and cross to Ki Lung, packed with more textiles, buttons and bows — this was the original garment factory district. The entire area is a frozen-in-time frame from any 1960s Bruce Lee movie. Not much has changed. This is very much Bruce Lee Country. Savour the scene then it’s on to Tai Nan Street with its gaily painted buildings, street art and leather shops. The smell of leather will assail your nostrils as you walk past. The entire area is dense with boutique cafes, design studios and coffeeshops like the popular Sausalito on Tai Nan.

Sausalito café is right next to long surviving White Noise Records (whitenoiserecords.org) run by workaholic Gary who sees a resurgence in LPs, even though “several of the younger buyers simply want record jackets as home decoration”. Gary stocks a range of artists and labels but specialises in East Asian and Japanese groups. White Noise also has old box sets and rare finds including Cowboy Bebop (25th anniversary boxset at HK$2,450); War’s ‘The World is a Ghetto’ (complete sessions, for $925); and ‘Mellon Collie and the Infinite Sadness’ by Smashing Pumpkins ($880). There is also the small and crammed-to-the-gills Hang Sing LP Records at 141 Apliu Street in the thick of the market scrum.

Close by at 171 Tai Nan Street is the delightfully quirky Japanese variety story Bunkaya Zakkaten (www.bunkayaonlineshop.com/). It has other small outlets around Hong Kong. You might spot shop manager Kar Chan showing customers around with a twinkle in her eye and tales of mad adventuring across Asia. She did a solo trip to India and wants to go back to Rajasthan. "Solo?" I ask, incredulously. She laughs. "Yes". A Chucky 'See you in hell' tee-shirt that catches my eye is HK$450. Japanese prices.

And for thrill seekers with hours to spare as well as the money and the moxie there’s The Mantra Tattoo (www.instagram.com/themantratattoo, 1/F, 88 Nam Cheong St) where former graphic-art student Lexi plies her craft with fellow professionals. Nine years on her parents have seemingly accepted her arcane work. As Lexi confesses with a wry chuckle, “My mum recently asked if she could get a small tattoo”. We burst out laughing. Lexi’s arms are covered wrist to shoulder in elaborate works, from Hong Kong, Barcelona and Amsterdam. Clearly it’s a universal language. In Hong Kong expect to shell out in the region of HK$1,500 per hour. Sittings can easily stretch to over five hours or take up two or more sessions, so…

The Sum Ngai Brass Factory in Kam Tin is a browser's delight and Alice makes an excellent host (far left); Rid Brick House Market with its flea wares (centre); and artist Lexi from Mantra Tattoo, Sham Shui Po, takes a break outside the Sausalito coffee shop/ photo: Vijay Verghese

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Kam Tin Red Brick House and Brass Factory

Deep in the New Territories to the far north, step out of the Kam Sheung Road Station (Tuen Ma Line Exit B) to browse the yellow-red tin-container flea market with its fun oddities. Gawp at superhero costumes, dinky cars, potted plants, gemstones, costume jewellery, snacks, clothes, utensils, nail-clippers, soaps and records. The chatty Tiffany Lam who runs a corner space selling sweaters, scarves and socks will upsell you in no time. At the far end of the market there are a few mini whack-a-mole setups for kids. See our Yuen Long fun guide. This colourful flea market on MTR land is due to be moved to distant Tuen Mun early 2025.

A seven minute walk eastwards on the pedestrian-cycle path will bring you to Kam Tin's best kept secret — the Red Brick House Market (www.yl.hk/rbh). This atmospheric Victorian candle factory has been brilliantly repurposed as a handicraft and flea market that stirs by 11am (Saturdays and Sundays) and is abustle by lunchtime or late afternoon. Take a moment to stop at M&B run by the chatty and affable Bonnie who does fruit infused sourdough and other breads. Her husband Michael, the barista, blends coffees whenever he's around.

Red Brick House Market is packed with interesting stuff, from homeware, and paintings to clothes, (including the arty designer brand Jellynose), accessories, greeting cards (one exclusively featuring cats and dogs), and plants. The shyly chatty Anson Ng has a long running art store and conducts painting classes. At one end of the concourse, celebrating the history of the place, is the long serving Angel Candle (www.angelcandle.com) with a wide selection of scented and decorative candles for all occasions. Angel Candle is also open afternoons, Monday to Friday.

Artist Phoebe Chow runs the cat and dog postcard store and can be seen working at feline wood cutouts that she later overpaints as mantlepiece adornments. Many of these feature her own favourite cats. All her proceeds are donated to an NGO that looks after underprivileged people in Hong Kong. Her work is all heart. A few shops down, is Fanny Leung’s Thai casual-wear shop (No.5) where colourful patchwork blouses start at HK$198. She also runs the Elegant Thai restaurant just at the back.

A popular corner dai pai dong  run by Ivan Chan and his beaming wife, Ms Wong, specialises in fried tofu (cha dao fu served with a tart dip that comes alive with some chilli sauce), dumplings, and quick noodles. It makes or a convenient pit-stop with a broad fan-cooled central sitting area where shoppers congregate.

A couple of hundred metres along Kam Sheung road is the enticing Aladdin-cave Sum Ngai Brass Factory (www.sumngaibrass.com), well known to Hong Kong old-timers. There is limited parking for visitors. The brass factory has been in operation since the Sixties. The old folks have passed the mantle to their children who manage things with efficient aplomb and beaming smiles. Sum Ngai is well worth a visit and an excellent spot for picking up gifts and mementos. Browse small lacquered cloisonne works, Chinese tea sets, ceramic vases, lamps with elegant lampshades, bedside cabinets and, of course, brass statuettes. Look for Jimmy Tong or his sister Alice — patiently guiding customers — occasionally aided by siblings Venus and Yoki.

Sham Shui Po's never ceases to amaze. Ki Lung Street (centre left) is a good place to start your trawl; On Tai Nan Street, Bunkaya Zakkaten ups the novelty factor as store manager Kar explains the japanese quirls (far left and centre); Shoppers stroll through Citygate Outlets in Tung Chung (right)/ photos: Vijay Verghese

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HK factory outlet shopping guide

There is no dearth of factory outlets in Hong Kong, but shopping for steep discounts and bargain prices involves stretching farther afield. Think Tung Chung, near the International Airport, Kwai Hing near Tsuen Wan, and Ap Lei Chau in the far south of Hong Kong Island.

Perhaps the best known spot for fashionable factory outlet shopping in Hong Kong is Citygate Outlets (www.citygateoutlets.com.hk/en/) in a swish and breezy Swire development at Tung Chung, Lantau Island, just before the airport.

Take the Tung Chung Line from Hong Kong Station in Central, passing the huge, slick, and confusing Elements (www.elementshk.com) mall at Kowloon Station. The MTR will conveniently deposit you at Tung Chung Station (take Exit C). This route is separate from the Airport Express line. With restaurants and cinemas this is a spacious family-friendly area with opportunities for breathers from discount shopping and the regular sales.

At Citygate (10am-10pm), explore Adidas, Anteprima, Armani, Bally, Breitling watches, Brooks Brothers for traditional cuts, Burberry, Calvin Klein, COACH, rugged Columbia sportswear, Dunhill, Furla handbags, Jimmy Choo shoes, colourful Kate Spade bags, Levi’s, lululemon, Polo, Repetto, Ferragamo, Shanghai Tang and Swarovski crystal accessories. There’s a Toys R Us to delight kids, a Timberland for real men, Zegna for fashionistas, Vilebrequin for eye-popping patterned swimwear, and Uniqlo for trendy tightwads. Keep an eye on special deals and rewards for Alipay and WeChat Pay.

Horizon Plaza (horizonplaza.com.hk/) is a 25-storey converted factory building in a warehouse outpost on the slowly gentrifying Ap Lei Chau island, a short walk from the South Horizons MTR station on the southside of Hong Kong Island. It has been around for a while and made a name for itself as a spot for stylish outlets and household furnishings ranging from mod to rustic. In between pet hangouts, gourmet offerings, carpet showrooms and kids’ stores (Toys Club and Nerd Kids for Living) look out for factory outlets from names like agnès b, Anteprima (wire bags), Brooks Brothers, Chloe, Diesel, Ermenegildo Zegna, Hugo Boss, Lane Crawford, Ralph Lauren, Shiatzy Chen and Timothy Oulton. Horizon Plaza is a spot for a leisurely wander up echoing staircases and in creaking industrial lifts.

White Noise records is an old timer at Sham Shui Po (left); Timberland and rugged boots at Citigate factory outlets mall at Tung Chung (centre); and kids' fun section at flea market outside Kam Sheung Road MTR/ photos: Vijay Verghese

For something different, head up through Kowloon on the Tsuen Wan line and hop off at Kwai Hing MTR (exits B or E) to get to Florentia Village (www.florentiavillage.com/hk-en). This is a smaller space with slightly higher price tags though at times some products may have up to 80% off. With a Florentine inspired name, it started out as a specialist location for Italian outlets but has branched out more recently. Look for Balmain, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, a larger PRADA, Tory Burch, Valentino and the very British Vivienne Westwood. Florentia Village accepts Alipay, WeChat Pay and Apple Pay.

A tad more accessible and also from Swire is OnTheList (www.onthelist.com/HK/en) at Quarry Bay (Oxford House, Taikoo Place). Among the more interesting things it offers is flash sales on travel for fancy resorts around the region. Designer brand sales are a regular affair and keep rotating. Find ladies’ shoes, handbags, beauty products, casual wear, and much more. Expect names like Diane von Furstenberg, Joy & Peace (shoes), Shupatto (bags), and Dsquared2 (t-shirts, jeans and sweaters).

That sums up the core of the Hong Kong fun shopping experience. We have stuck with essentials and left several farther afield mega-malls out of this guide. Enjoy.

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